IFW7300WW01 Inglis Washer - Instructions

After unplugging the washer, the unit was pulled forward and tipped backwards, I placed a 2x4 under the washer to serve as a brace. I removed the existing bolts holding the old pump in place, removed the spring hose clams, unplugged the pump and removed the damaged part. inserted the new drain pump, re-inserted the bolts and tightened them, replaced the spring clamps with "regular" hose clamps supplied with the replacement part, plugged in the power supply, removed the brace, pushed back the unit and plugged it into the outlet. From start to finish - about 20 minutes. Was running wash about a half hour after I started.

First, I watched the video again just to make sure I had a firm grasp of the task ahead. I gathered up the tools and proceeded to begin. First obstacle: getting the washer tilted back enough to put the blocks under the front feet. The washer was sitting inside a square water pan with a drain connected directly under the middle of the washer. Therefore, the water pan did not move and I could only get the washer moved out far enough to 'barely' put the blocks underneath. Second obstacle: a clump of hair had gathered at the bottom portion of the door unnoticed and caused a slow leak from the bellows. This leak dripped down and rusted out two of the three screws. I had to use a socket set to get the screws out. Third obstacle: getting the pump removed from the bottom of the washer. With the drip, the pump had stuck to the bottom of the washer. Trying hard not to get cut on the sheet metal bottom, I pushed and pushed and pulled until finally the pump let loose. From that point on..smooth sailing just like the video. Washer fixed!

My dryer is on top my washer so I removed the dryer and pulled the washer out. I had to get rid of the water that was inside so I used my wet vacuum on the drain hose and sucked it out I then removed the front cover and the I tipped it back and removed two screws from the bottom of the pump bracket underneath the washer and moved the two clams on the pump hoses back to uncouple the hoses. I removed the pump and installed the new one and hocked everything back including the wires to the pump which is just a quick connect and pushed it back into place and it worked like new

Very --simple remove front acess panel -- open sump clean out remove water out of existing pump an hoses with small wet dry vac -- remove small wire harnes --cut band clamp on discharge with side cutter --remove inlet -suction side of pump hose clamp with channel locks --un bolt two screws on bottom side of washer with 5/16 nut runner --discard old pump reinstall new one in reverse order --only takes about 20 mins total !!! ---

I pulled the front load washer away from the wall and unplugged. I tilted it back against the wall. I removed three screws from the lower front cover plate of washer. Once removed, I had access to the tub to pump hose which I found a small hole in. I went online to Partselect and found my part. The hose was connected in three different places by compression clamps. I then pulled the compression clamps off the connections. Cleaned up all connection points with a damp rag. Upon installation of the new tub to pump hose, I discarded the compression clamps and installed the new part using radiator clamps purchased at a auto parts store. Plugged washer back in and started a load too make sure all connections were good and tight with no leaks. After checking for leaks, I re-installed the front cover plate. Tilted washer back down being careful not too set it down hard or on my feet. Job Done....

open the front bottom panel (3) screws. remove panel. twist off old shocks by turning the shock counter clockwise. reinstall shock by turning clockwise.

Removed top panel. Removed rear panel. Replaced belt. Fairly easy only issue was getting the actual belt pulled enough to wrap around the pulley.

The key to this repair is 1) lifting the front of the washer to access the bottom trim bolts, and 2) using lubricating spray around the outer bellows clamp area and 2 people to work the clamp into place.

Unplugged washer first! Removed front bottom panel by removing three screws, unscrewed the Drain Plug assembly by turning drain plug counter clockwise with a bucket to catch excess water from washer. Used pliers to remove spring clamps from washer agitator drain hose and then removed the spring clamp from the hose going to drain. Checked hoses for obstructions, then Slide Drain Pump assembly up to the right to remove. Then installed new Drain Pump assembly by sliding pump into slot to the left. Connected the agitator and drain hose to new Drain Pump and fastened with spring clamps. Plugged in AC line cord and turned washer on and started a quick wash cycle to check for leaks and to see if the water drained from washer properly. The water drained from washer and error code did not appear. The error code F21 reappeared during the second wash cycle. After closer inspection with a flash light, I found a large piece of cloth caught between the washer agitator and washer tub covering the drain by shining the flash light up towards the Agitator tub. This was solved by removing the Drain Pump assembly and all of the drain hoses again. Then removing the the large hose from the agitator tub and then removing the large piece of cloth from agitator tub. After reassembly, the washer worked like new!

Turn off water and power. Pull top off first, then bottom front kick plate. Take all the screws out of the soap tray. Disconnect the front panel from the controller, then the upper front panel comes off, but be careful with it as it is plastic tabbed. Pull upper metal support brace off. Detach the door lock BEFORE you pull the door off (two torx screws). Take a flat head screwdriver and release the spring holding the bellows to the front door/panel, then fold bellows into washer a bit. Remove front door/panel. Back bellows clamp is Phillips, loosen and remove bellows. reverse steps to put back together, but run machine in rinse/spin with top and front lower kick panel off to make sure of no leaks. Also good time to check pump lint screen for junk in it too.

Took less than 5 minutes to replace, So Happy;-)

put in push down push back until they lock in

removed top,3 screws in back,lift up and pull back.removed soap dispenser.removed hidden torx screw on left side. removed screw top center of door opening,used putty knife to pop control panel off and laid on top of washer.used small screw driver to pop off front gasket spring and wire from left side.took gasket loose and remove door lock and let it hang there,took off kick panel and front then un screwed the inner gasket retainer,pulled off gasket.soaped up new gasket and reinsalled in reverse order..it took two of us to get the front spring and wire back on,that spring is tough and the gasket kept popping off,finaly got it,works fine

Searched internet for diagnosis. Ran diagnostic test using the diagnostic manual from whirlpool. The error code was F29. Replaced door latch but problem was not solved. Then order the Motor Control Unit. Removed old control unit through the top by removing the top washer cover and numbering harness positions with painter's tape. Install the new Control Unit and ran diagnostic procedure. The problem was solved. The washer is working fine.

Well first off the part is different then the orignal so it does not fit correctly. I removed the old bellow and its cicular spring clamps. On the new bellow there is not enough lip on the rubber for hte clamps to be put back on and hold the bellow in place so it still leaks out the door. if the part was a match it would work but since the part number was changed and the design was changed it now does not fit correctly. INstructions did not come withthe part so had to find them online.