HVM1540LN2CS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Removed 5 philip head screws from under panel. Under panel droped down exposing drive motor. Removed one drive motor screw, replaced with new motor at the same time lining up new coupler. Pressed together, reinstalled motor srew, attached wire coupling and tested. Worked fine. Reinstalled lower panel screws (5)and unit was ready to go. I ordered two of each units because I believe this to be weak link in the unit. It was only 2 years old, used little as I have another home. I recently installed a like unit (Hanging) and it was a breez. 4 srews properly placed, electrical cord hole properly drilled & ready to go in 45 minutes.

Removed three screws from the top front cover and slide it out and following I removed the touch panel and the housing that holds the switches and replaced the bad one.

I took the glass table up and underneath was the turntable coupler. I reached in with my hands and gently pulled the old coupler out. Once out I lined up the new one and gently pushed it in the hole until it locked into place. The process took about 5 minutes to complete. Very easy to install.

Removed the screws in bottom of unit. Dropped down bottom and removed turntable motor mounting screw. Removed motor and replaced broken Coupler TT Hub from inside unit. Reversed procedure and rectified problem.

remove two screws bend out flaps remove broken glass install new glas bend flaps back to hold glass install two screws. Done.

Last week I removed the glass cover that was held in by one screw and removed the burnt out light bulb. I ordered the bulb and left the glass cover off until the bulb arrived. I had to wait until this evening to put the glass cover back on and fasten the screw because I have a window right next to the oven and the sun streaming in made it too difficult for me to see how to put the glass back in and replace the screw.

lowered bottom panel, unpluged turntable motor, unscrewed one screw. replaced old motor with new alinged turntable button. repluged motor wire and finished.

This repair was easy and could be done by anyone. If you undertake to do this replacement, remember to slowly bend the medal tabs back that hold the lens. Handled roughly these tabs could break off.

This repair can be don in under 5 minutes, easily !!

The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attaching the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

The filter we have is 6x4. I ordered by phone.They sent the wrong part - 6x11.
We returned it to Post Office at our own cost - $8.85 May26. Tracked - it arrived May 28. So far we do not have the correct filter. We are waiting for the refund. Charged $49.99 plus tax & shipping of $7.75.
Thank you for helping us get the correct filter and a refund. We should not be charged for returning the wrong part they sent us by mistake.
Marilyn Tostado

Removed the control panel, one screw at the top. Removed 2 screws on the door switch holder and removed the door switch. VERY EASY.

thank you for the video--very clear, responsible, applicable although the illustration was not exactly of our kind of light. the bulb was exactly like the one Hotpoint used in its microwave made in 1989! I will come back to you for parts in the future. (You have the model # from my original order.)

Tyring to get bulb out i ruined the light socket. Unscrewed the bottom cover of microware. Took out screw holding light socket, removed wires to socket with pliers, intsalled new socket. It was a piece of cake and the part was a perfect match.