HTX24EASK0WS Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

Took the top and front end of the dryer off. Took the old slider spacers off and installed the new ones. I replaced all four of them even though only two was bad. While I had the dryer open I decided to use my shop vac to clean up the lint that had accumulated there. Replaced the front and the lid plugged it up, hit the start no noise just like new.

No repair, just replace the old with the new. Fast delivery.

My dryer knob broke on the timer cycle switch so I ordered a new one along with a new dryer knob which didn't fix the problem, then I ordered the start switch and all I had to do was remove the back of the dryer where all the knobs are located and remove the start switch by turning the start switch to remove it, replace it with the new one by turning it till it clicks in just like when you removed it, put knob back on the front. However that didn't fix my dryer either so I ordered the thermal fuse and switched it out and that was what started the dryer back up. It is located on the back all the way to the bottom where the electrical cord is. Remove the cover and locate the fuse. Use a pair of pliers to pop it out and push the new one back in.

First I called to get help with the right part and they told me I needed the pus-to-start-switch. It came in and I called my handyman Ed to install it. I am happy with your service. I dont install but just got the part in.

Advice from others with same problem on your web site was very helpful. I removed one of the three torx screws holding the deflecter, Used 2.5 star-drive screw diver bit and cordless drill/driver. Replaced 2 of three torx screws holding the deflecter with the headless brass screws, Using vice grip to tighten. Removed third torx screw and removed old deflector. Used shop vac to clean behind it. Installed new deflector, sliding it over the 2 headless screws, then installing one of the torx screws, then replacing the brass screws with original torx screws, one at a time.

Having 2 persons make the job easier.
1) Remove the screws that holds the hinge to the body of the unit.
2) Remove the screws around the door so you can get to the hinge.
3) Remove bad hinge and replace with new one.

Very simple and easy it took no more than 10 seconds if that long. Remove the worn out screen (pull up and out), replace it with the new screen( slide it into the area where the old screen was removed. (No tools needed)

Just put new lint filter in slot
I had torn the screen on the original one

Unscrewed the top back of dryer and replaced the unit 1 wire at a time also was easier due to the letters besides the wire

remove top of cabinet and front panel. placed belt around drum and replaced idler pully placed new belt around pully and was done. not a hard job at all. replced front panel and top. thanks to a speedy delivery of my parts dryer was only down two days.

I just popped in the new Filter and it fit perfectly. This will prolong the dryer use, looks like new.

Thank you Part Select.

One Happy customer

Lift the lint filter and slide the 2 hooked ends into the 2 holes provided . Front end is locked in as other end is suspended .

Found the dryer's high limit thermostat had opened up.
Likely cause was excessive lint buildup in exhaust vent pipe to outside.
Used wire nuts to "temporarily" bypass thermostat and cleaned out the vent pipe
When new part arrived...

Removed control panel screws and panel was laid on top of dryer
Removed back panel screws.
Removed top panel screws. Lifted to allow right side swing out slightly.

I did not have sufficient tool to reach the thermostat therefore I reamed out a hole in the rear panel above the thermostat fastener screw to allow a long handle screwdriver into the area for replacement.

Removed temporary bypass and used wire nuts to utilize dryers' thermostat existing wiring.

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

Check for 240 at back of dryer, replaced all three thermostats around coil on rear panel, including high limt thermo,, but still no heat.

Not sure if coil is bad or if there is another thermostat or fuse around blower.