HTWP1400F1WW Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

The replacement of this tripe water valve was so easy. My tub kept filling with water even though the water should have shut of. First remove the two hoses from the valve. Second you remove the 3 screws from the steel shield behind the plastic upper control pan panel. Take the shield off. Remove the control panel and lay on the washer. Then take the filler hose to the tub off using pliers to remove the hose clamp. Then take the two screws out of the valve. Twist and remove the valve. That is the removal. Reverse all of these to put it back on and test out. This valve fixed my problem. Anyone can do this who has any basic knowledge of tools.

Followed the instructions on repair clinic video

This is a normal condition; the old bolts are self-tapping so simply align them well, I used a drill-driver to get them started and completed tightening with a socket wrench. (Also the new drive shaft assembly comes with a tub seal, so you don't have to order a separate one.) I do think it would be better if the drive assembly came with 4 new bolts.
The instruction video was immensely helpful, Thank you.

I had to insert a broom stick to keep the drive pulley from rotating as I hammered the tub nut loose.

2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.

First I had to remove the front cover to the washer.
Then it was just a matter of using the nut driver to loosen the clamp holding the hose to the tub portion, and a channel lock for the clip on the drain pump. Pull the old hose out, do the same thing vise versa for the install... Only hard part was the clamp on the drain pump was being a little difficult (but no big deal).

Popped the front cover off and found a small hole was in the drain hose going to the pump,used pliers for one clamp and nut driver for the other clamp,removed bad hose and installed the new hose,ran water pump after putting some water in the tub,checked for leaks,put the front cover back on,that was it.

Pried the front cover off the washer and then rotated the tub around for easier access to the hose clamp. Used screwdriver on hose clamp then detached spring clamp from pump inlet. Reversed the procedure for repair!

Unpacked the agitator from the box. Manually pulled off the old agitator and snapped on the new one. Total repair time was under 2 mins. Much better than a $120 service call.

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

I removed the bottom pan and found the problem , It was the drain hose , then I removed the hose , and began to look for a replacement part , and my search lead me to Parts Select .com , It was MOST helpfull and for that I thank you guys , I got my part and insalled it in about 15 min. and took the machine back into the laundry room hooked it up and it's been doin good sense .

I pulled the top off of the washer and found that my leak was coming from a small hole in the hose and water inlet. I had to remove 2 small bolts and a hose clamp to remove the old part,I did the reverse to install new part.

follow youtube vid. simple

This was not hard to do.removed top screws and back plate screws. Water inlet valve has 3 screws and a hose clamp.this job was thirty min. tops.goes back together much faster then taking it apart.

removed three screws from back panel used putty knife to remove front panel and dampening strap were there to remove.