HTWP1000M2WW Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

Ordered new pump on Sunday - replaced on Wednesday. Removed front washer panel with putty knife to release latches. Used pliers to disconnect hose clamps. Lots of paper towels to sop up water in bottom of washer and on floor. Unhooked electrical wires. Socket to remove pump. Reverse actions to replace pump. It's "plug and play"!

The hardest part is lifting the washer to get a the bottom. Disconnect the power, shut off water. Disconnect hoses and drain hose. Move washer from the wall about 2 feet. Tilt up front of washer. I used 4 12" long 8x8 inch lumber, lift washer….place one on each from corner. Lift again, place 1 more 4x4 on each existing 4x4. Now remove the belt off the 3 pulleys. Use the flat blade screw driver to remove the C clip holding the Pully on the shaft, with the flat bladed screw driver and hammer. Once the C clip is off remove the metal washer, pulley, plastic lock (apart of the bottom of the pulley & the thrush bearing and it's washer. Using the parts supplied (the "new thrush bearing is a bearing and washer combined) replace as you removed it. Thrust bearing, pulley, washer and, c clip. I tapped mine on using the flat bladed screw drive……becareful not to break it (they did supply 2 for me in the repair packet) make sure he c clip is secured. Lower the washer after removing all the tools from under the washer, by reversing the lift sequence. Slide the washer in place. Connect the hoses back up. Plug it in.Reconnect the drain hose, you should be good to go.

I had to take out the front panel to access the Tub. Afterward the work wasn't hard.

The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.

Watched the repair video on PartSelect website , repair was exactly as they showed on video , grab old agitator at base , give a quick pull and it popped right off , lined up tabs to coupler with new agitator and gave a sharp push down and new agitator snapped right on. Total repair time was approx 5 minutes .

Surprisingly easy. I took the screws off, then pulled off the drain hose. I then inserted the new hose, and put back the screws. Amazing quick!

Could have removed debis in old pump. Kept it as a spare.
Replacement was simple , (two nuts) & (2 Lg. Hose Clamps) + two wires.
Dealer wanted $168.00 Labor + $67.00 for part!.

The replacement of this tripe water valve was so easy. My tub kept filling with water even though the water should have shut of. First remove the two hoses from the valve. Second you remove the 3 screws from the steel shield behind the plastic upper control pan panel. Take the shield off. Remove the control panel and lay on the washer. Then take the filler hose to the tub off using pliers to remove the hose clamp. Then take the two screws out of the valve. Twist and remove the valve. That is the removal. Reverse all of these to put it back on and test out. This valve fixed my problem. Anyone can do this who has any basic knowledge of tools.

This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc

I pushed a small screwdriver under the top lid and pulled the front out and lifted it out or the way. The rubber hose had two clamps holding it. One you loosen with a flat screwdriver and the other one you squeeze with pliers to remove hose.Then replace hose and put front back on. It's very simple.

I followed the Youtube instructions on replacing the valve. So easy.
Getting the wire clamp pushed back from the hose was the only part that wasn't easy but I got it done by being gentle and persistent moving and twisting the wire a little at a time.
Im a 67 yr old woman and was determined not to call in a appliance repair person after I saw how simple the installation could be. Parts Direct is awesome. Will use again in the future for repairs. I feel like I have super powers after doing this myself.

Open up the back of the top front panel by removing two screws. Unhook the wires from the old valve, then slip the small clamp down far enough to pull the old valve stem out of the little tubing. Removed the old valve, then replaced with the new valve.

replace lid switch

replaced broken straps all 4. washer not working ]. replaced lid switch with wire harness.replaced bad old belt.working fine now. my wife is very happy. thanks for your videos and how to do the job right.

The front panel has to be taken off to access the washing machine pump. To do this I used a putty knife I inserted the putty knife in the slot at the top of the front panel where it meets the top of the machine to release the clip that holds the panel in place. Once the panel is off the pump is mounted to the bottom of the machine with two screws. There are also two hoses attached to the pump that need to be taken off. Before you do this you have to get as much water out of the machine as you can to minimize the amount of water that will come out when you disconnect the hoses. My recommendation is to replace the spring type hose clamps the manufacturer uses with a screw type hose clamp. These are much easier to put back on once the hoses are in place. You are not fighting the spring clamp while trying to put the hose on in a confined space. Then put the front panel back on. This may take about a half hour if you do not have too much clean up because you didn’t get enough water out of the machine.