HTDP120ED5WW Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

Followed your video instructions and it worked exactly as described. You will be my source for all appliance repair parts.

Unplugged the dryer. Removed the 4 star headed screws with a screwdriver. Tilted the console forward and lifted. I didn't have to slide mine to the right. Pulled the knob straight off the front of the console. Lifted the lock tab with the needle nose pliers and twisted the switch to the right. It popped right out. Pulled the wires off with the pliers. Be aware, there are three wires, two red and one black. The both red wires only connect to one terminal on the switch. It looked at first glance as if I had the wrong part. But those two wires are connected to each other so it was correct. Plugged those wires back on. Put the switch into the hole and twisted it back into place, the lock clicked in to place. Replaced the console and plugged it back in and it worked perfectly. Turned right on. This took me under 15 minutes to do. Steve is the man! This girl has been able to use his videos to repair the dryer 3 times, the washer once, and my dishwasher 3 times over the years!!

Snapped right into place , less than a minute, if that

UNPLUGGED THE DRYER AND PULLED THE DIAL FROM THE START SWITCH. REMOVED THE FOUR SCREWS FROM THE TOP OF THE CONTROL PANEL WITH A T20 STAR SCREWDRIVER. PULLED THE CONTROL PANEL COVER FORWARD. LABELED THE THREE WIRES GOING TO THE START SWITCH WITH THE NUMBERS ON THE OLD SWITCH. PULLED THE WIRES OFF THE OLD SWITCH. LIFTED THE RETAINING CLIP ON THE OLD SWITCH AND ROTATED THE SWITCH ABOUT 90 DEGREES. PULLED THE OLD SWITCH OUT AND INSTALLED THE NEW SWITCH, ROTATING IT UNTIL THE RETAINING CLIP SNAPPED INTO PLACE. CONNECTED THE WIRES TO THE CORRECT NUMBERED TERMINALS ON THE NEW SWITCH. PUT THE CONTROL PANEL COVER BACK IN PLACE AND REATTACHED IT WITH THE SCREWS, REPLACED THE DIAL AND PLUGGED IN THE DRYER.

Followed the directions in the video. The only problem was there was no mention of needing a star bit set in addition to a Philips screwdriver in order to get the back splash detached from the dryer. This is probably because the machine was 11 years old. It would have been more helpful to have a note that machines prior to a certain age would need that tool. Otherwise it was a easy job even for a 75 year old grandmother.

Based on the few components in a dryer, I diagnosed the problem as a defective timer switch. Five screws remove the rear cover. The timer switch purchased was the identical part that was currently installed. In the old days, I would have drawn a picture to note the wiring connections. These days, we just take a picture on a cell phone. I removed the switch from the dryer and moved the wire connections one at a time over to the new switch. When all of the connections were in place, I installed the new switch. With cover still removed, we tested it and the dryer shut off as it should. Super easy repair. The only thing I would have done differently is I should have purchased a replacement knob and retainer - the original had cracks in the plastic that I didn't know about until re-assembly. Superglue took care of the knob, but I should have replaced it too. Disconnect the power cord first, take your time, and be careful with the sharp edges of sheet metal. I suffered an ugly cut on my finger but I'll survive. Super easy repair. She'll think you're a hero since she didn't have to call a repair man.

I watched the Parts Select video with Steve and he showed me how to do the repair. Took the top cover off and front door panel, I did not undo the wiring on the door switch. Removed the old top bearing (it snaps in and out) put the new one in placed the glide bearing put everything back together and no more noise. It worked.

Still waiting for your parts. over two weeks to get part which was a hinge for something, I don't know what, but not my dryer seal. You said you would refund shipping and wrong part and charge me for a new order. End result was I got charged extra shipping for your mistake. The part still is MIA and it has been 5 weeks since I originally ordered. Will never do business with you again.

To get to the slides, needed to take off the front panel, the top and then can loosen the front of the dryer. Pull it out enough to get to the slides and replace them.

Snap out the broken part. Snap in the new part. Use caution with the wires, but don’t have to disconnect them.

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

The shaft of the previous nob had cracked and even super glue would not hold it together. The dryer timer could no longer be set without it. Slipped it off and slipped on the new one and it worked perfectly.

good replacement procedure on you tube.

On my GE Dryer the lint filter is located inside the door at the bottom. The filter can just be pulled out by hand & a new one pushed into place

started with replacing the belt and tension pulley which I purchased from another source. I found your videos on line and they are great. easy to follow. Realized I needed the bottom vent assembly and your prices were better than my local supplier. It was easy to replace thanks to your video. It was nice that you included it in the final order status. The only problems. Did not know the duct felt seal was included with the new duct assembly. I ordered the wrong bearing slides, web site showed both green and white for my model. I now realize I should replace the upper bearing housing. Can I return the unused parts, unopened and have that put as a credit to my next order? Thanks