HDA2000V00WW Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

Simply removed the old rack and installed the new rack.....easy as 123 ABC. Dishwasher still works fine but the bottom rack had rusted out. Not sure if this is common for this Hotpoint dishwasher as my deciding factor to order from here was that others had the same problem as me.

The only trick was the endcaps, which were not intuitive. I followed the instructions in the following Youtube video , which direct the user to bend a tab at the rear of the endcap back away from the front using a quarter in order to allow the endcap to rotate out of position inwards into the interior of the dishwasher. The old racks then slid easily out of the dishwasher, the new ones equally easily slid in, and then the endcaps required the tab to be bent back to allow them to rotate back into position.

Replace both micro switches.

I Just Open Door And Put Fill Cap In And Turn That It

Used teflon tape around new 3/8 elbow. Re-installed valve in originals postion. Connected supply hose and reconnected electrical to valve.

shut off water. removed lower panel disconnected power removed supply hose and outlet hose. disconnected electrical plug from valve. Un bolted valve from frame. removed elbow from valve inlet. installed elbow on new valve using Teflon tape. reinstalled valve to frame. connect hoses + electric plug to new valve. turn water on check for leaks. reconnect power. run dish washer check for leaks & popper operation. reinstall lower panel.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

I could not pull it out to get the new one in so I used a dremmel. Then pressed in the new one.

Thanks for your help.

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.

I gently grasped the end caps with pliers and twisted them toward the center of the dishwasher while gently pulling on them. They came out with some minor difficulty. Be careful or they can be broken. When putting the caps back on the tracks grasp them with pliers to reinsert. Use a small srewdriver to assist in getting the plastic caps to slide into place. Wear light weight gloves when doing this to avoid getting cut on the sharp edges of the tracks.

Inspected the old gasket. Removed, cleaned, re-seated existing gasket. Tested and found smaller leaks. Purchased and installed new gasket. Majority of leaks stopped but some detergent still leaks. Unsure what the problem is with that but the main leaks have been fixed. Dishwasher is less than 5 years old. Thank You.

This is the second time I have order a part from this firm. They have been kind, helpful and sent my order to me immediately. The first part was a wheel for the dish rack in the dish washer. The second part was an end cap for the dish rack slide. I installed the parts within a minute. I am very pleased with their professional service and highly recommend them to anyone with an appliance problem where parts are needed quickly.

I measured the diameter of the working wheels from the existing ones, and located the parts I needed from the website. I order two packages, each containing the wheels and axles for the rack.
When delivered, I snapped the wheels onto the delivered axles. Then, I snapped the axels unto the bottom rack, at the correct place. I used a large pliers for leverage because the axel was a bit tight to just simply snap on.
The middle wheels are located just behind the front wheels, thereby offering support when the botton rack is pulled forward for loading. Likewise, they offer support when the rack is pushed back in place.

I simply removed the bad part and reversed the process. It was very easy and a 12 year old could do it. Thanks for the online tips and recommendations. You saved me over 400.00 which is what a new unit would run. Plus installation. Many Thanks.

Used drill and easy out to remove broken part, then put in new one