GZ2727GEHB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

The difficult part of the repair was the removal of the auger nut so that the motor shaft could be slipped through the enclosure. My son finally removed the front of the motor allowing him to get a better grip and thereby remove the auger nut. Once that was done the actual replacing of the enclosure was easy. The two portions of the motor and the accompaning soleniod fit well and were easily screwed in. The motor was then connected to the opening on the back wall and all was well.

Emptied the door by taking out all the shelves with their contents. Removed the upper door closer works. Removed the door by lifting up and away from the main box. Layed the door on its side. Took out the old lower hinge pin and door closer with cup. Put in the new lower hinge pin and door closer with cup. Applied sewing machine gear grease to the 2 pieces where they work together. Lifted the door and placed the lower hinge pin into the door closer with cup. Replaced the upper door closer works.

Removed the ice bucket, reached under the ice enclosure and unplugged the auger motor removed the ice enclosure, attached the auger motor on the new ice enclosure reinstalled the new ice enclosure, plugged the auger motor and put the ice bucket back in place. The hardest part was to get the forked piece that goes inside the ice enclosure off of the auger motor. I ordered the part one day and it was at my house the next day!

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

This repair didn't go as easily as I had hoped because I made a couple of mistakes. I'll describe them so maybe someone can avoid it.
First, in order to remove the old part, you only need to remove the hex head screw on the lower left side (underneath) of the ice enclosure. The whole plastic piece will then slide up and can be pulled out. I removed all the screws in the very back of the plastic tray (near the broken plastic from around the motor) before removing the part and several parts fell out when I removed the tray. Luckily I was able to see how they go back together. Just wait to remove those screws until you pull the plastic unit out and you'll be okay. The other challenge was disconnecting the motor/solenoid from the back of the refridgerator. You can't see it so you have to go by feel. Pinch the top and bottom of the plastic connector and pull straight out. It should come out easily. You'll have to put it back in by feel too. Once the old part was out of the refridgerator, the new part was easy to assemble. Be careful that the wires don't disconnect from the solenoid or the motor or make sure you know how to reattach them. Other than those items, it was an easy repair.

Troubleshoot noise and linked it with no ice from dispenser due to the fact the auger motor was completely broken from enclosure. Search Internet for part number, and supplier. Order part on line convienance, wife did not tell me she picked up box from front porch, spent two days tracking down a box that was right inside the front door. Then... Remove ice bin. Unplug harness from rear wall behind ice enclosure. Remove 1 sheet metal screw from under enclosure with 1/4 nut driver. Remove enclosure. Remove auger motor, 4 machine screws. Remove despencer solenoid, yoke assembly, and yoke guide, 2 machine screws, 2 sheet metal screws. Assembly is reverse of removal.

ordered a new shut-off valve. arrived in 5 days. installation had to wait a couple more day for i had to order a new compression nut. the reason i had to order a new nut was because the original nut was made of teflon and stripped easily when i tightened it to make a leak proof.joint. the new nut arrived in two days and was installed readily being that it was made of brass and consequently did not strip when i tightened to make a drip proof joint. finished in approximately twenty minutes' the video that this site has on the internet was of great value.

Just plugged it in

Removed 6 screws to get at broken part. Had to remember the disassembly sequence to properly reassemble. The whole process was relatively simple. I saved about $125 which would have been the cost of a repairman coming to the house.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

I switched the ring and still had the same problem. What caused the Drive ring to crack was the Ice maker drive was cracked also, when it filled with water it would tip. The ice was not freezing completely and would cause the ice to build up and the auger was froze with ice or a big piece of ice would jam it. So I replaced the Ice Tray, it is working like new. I have to buy another ice tray as inventory, although I know inventory is bad but I never agreed with that theory.

Removed ice maker. Removed one screw and removed ice tray with motor. Had to unplug the wire bundle from the refrigerator wall behind the ice maker.
Screws holding motor and parts were corroded and very difficult to remove. Once remover the unit was easily reassembled and replaced into the refrigerator.
The ice maker was cleaned and carefully placed onto the ice shelf.
the ice maker restarted fine.
Great part delivery.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Removed the screws that held the main ice bin and slid back the bin to leave space behind the auger to remove the broken ring. Replaced with new ring and replaced screws to hold ice bin back in place.