GX2SHBXVB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed old seal and installed new one. Whole job took less than ten minutes. Repair video made it very easy to do! Be sure to allow proper relaxation of new seal before install.

Removed the old gasket by pulling it out of the groove and installed the new gasket using my fingers to push the gasket into place.

took about 15 min just took off gasket with flat screwdriver cleaned and put it on no glue it has magnets very easy

The repair was pretty simple once we had the new one:

Unpacked new gasket and used a little heat in places to straighten it out.

Removed old gasket
just started at one corner by pulling out of groove and went around the door till all of gasket had been removed from the groove around the door.

Installed new gasket
Inserted into groove on one corner and then went around the door until all of gasket had been inserted.

Closed door and checked that there was good coverage all around the door.

repair was extremely easy.
Whether it was magnets weakened or seal getting stiff with age not allowing it to seal well, these gaskets improved it. Still not as strong a magnetic pull as it could be though. I will also say that the seals didn't pull tight at first. It seems the seals needed to flatten a bit before the magnets did their job.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

After the original center crisper drawer slide rail broke and and second also looking in deep into your parts catalog I discovered that the refrigerator never came with a crisper frame brace from the store or factory.
Thanks to you , I no longer have the use of the center rail breaking off for now everything is made out of cheaply make plastic by whirlpool.

I first removed the bottom shelf. Then I popped the rail in. It was pretty easy although I did have to use some force to fit it in. Ordering the part and doing it myself was a lot cheaper than calling the repair man.

just pop the old one out popped the new one in its replace.

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

I initially tested the heating element and defrost thermostat using an ohm meter. the defrost thermostat was incased in ice, so I replaced it first. The refridgerator worked for about a week and then froze up again. I then replaced the thermistor and the unit is working as designed.

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

My freezer compartment gasket was torn and needed replacement. This was on a bottom freezer Kenmore refrigerator. I couldn't find directions for how to take the freezer compartment door off, and figuring out how was the hardest part. Here are the instructions:
1. At least 24 hours prior to starting, remove the gasket from the packaging and lay it out in a warm area, to allow the creases to come out.
2. Unplug the refrigerator.
3. You will have to take BOTH doors off, so put at least the freezer compartment contents in a cooler so they don't thaw. Also remove all items from the refrigerator and freezer door.
4. Remove the refrigerator door first - remove the plastic cover from the top hinge, then remove the 3 metal screws holding the hinge in place. Lift the door up, and it will come right off. Set it aside.
5. Now remove the freezer door - there is one bolt head, for the top hinge pin. Remove it, and lift the door up and put it down on a table.
6. Towards the center, pull up on the old gasket, and use a pair of diagonal cutters to cut it in half. It will take a few cuts, but eventually you will get it out and cut in half. Then remove the old gasket.
7. The new gasket simply presses in. Start at two diagonal corners, then press the other two corners in, then do the straight sections.
8. Now replace the freezer door, then the refrigerator door, plug in the refrigerator, and put the contents back in.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Snapped in new part