GX2FHDXVY09 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Hardest part is access to the icemaker itself. Once I removed the freezer door (bottom drawer freezer), and got the sliding basket out, it was a 10 minute job. Make sure you start the upper screws first, the icemaker will hang there while you adjust, connect the harness, and tighten. Make sure you are ready before you close the door, it will start making ice as soon as the door is closed.

Used a deep well 1/4" nut driver. Loosen 4 screws on inside of door and slip it up and off rack. Remove 2 screws on bottom of ice maker. Loosen top 2. Slip up of screws, unplug ice maker and remove.

The part came the next day, very quick. The wrong size ended up in box we recieved. The part # we ordered was correct, just a mix up in the packaging process. I called and the customer service dept. had a new correct crisper pan delivered to my door two days later. Even with the mix up it was very fast and a good price compared to other sites. I would order again in the future.

Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.

Replaced the rail and slide baskets. Also readjusted the basket. This was extremely easy and saved me close to $500

Removed old ice maker by removing 3 screws, unplugged wiring harness. Replaced with new ice maker, placed three screws back to secure the ice maker, plugged wire harness back, and product is working well at this time.

Took out the bottom drawer, removed one hexhead nut on the unit, unplugged the unit, plugged in the replacement unit, screwed in the hexhead screw, replaced the drawer, that's it! Very user friendly.

Top bottom then sides took about 15 min

Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.

Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.

This is a bottom freezer refrigerator. Had to remove the freezer door and bottom shelve to make access to the ice maker possible.. Removed the old ice maker using a 1/4" nutdriver to loosen, but not remove, the top 2 screws. Removed the bottom support screw completely.. Detached the wiring harness from the freezer connector and lifted the ice maker up and out of the freezer. Installed the replacement ice maker in reverse order, slipping it over the loosened top screws. Tightened them, making sure the usit was level, then inserted and tightened the bottom support screw . Plugged the wiring harness into the freezer connector.. Unit produced ice within 3 hrs. .

When I received the gasket I laid it out on the floor in a spare room not too far from a heat register to let it straighten out. (If it were summer or sunny weather here I would have laid it out in the sun.) My adult son did the repair - it was very easy to pull out the old gasket and to gently clean the edges with a scraper to prepare for the new install. He followed instructions and other tips but the first section took a while before it would stay inserted. Once it did though, the rest of the gasket snapped in very quickly. I am happy the seal is much improved.

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.