GUAP240EM2WW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

Two tabs hold the switch in place. I used a plastic wedge to remove the switch. Removed and replaced the two connectors held in by friction. Painless.

Not only was finding the part rediculously easy for a person who has never done this type of thing...the repair was a sinch!! I will always return to this company for help with home equipment repairs. I saved so much money doing it this way. :) thanks guys!

Do not uninstall the old gasket until you have read all of these instructions. Upon receipt of the new gasket, compare the model number of the GE refrigerator to the paperwork included. Unpack the gasket by hand to ensure not to damage the new gasket. There is no specified top or bottom, left or right to the gasket but there is a front side (to the freezer face) and a back side (attaches to freezer door). Hold the new gasket up to the installed old gasket to ensure the size is identical (close in size WILL NOT work). Once the size is verified, pull the old gasket from the door, starting at any corner. The front side of the gasket is broader than the back side which presses into the door slot. Make sure that the door slot is clean to ensure a perfect fit. Recommend the new install begin at a top corner. Gently press the new gasket into the slot along the top. Do a side next, working the gasket in along the bottom to the last corner. Ensure the freezer face is clean for the best seal. Make sure the new gasket is dry, a wet gasket may freeze and pull the new gasket out! A good seal is verified by the "suction" when trying to open the door. A good seal is also indicated by no moisture/condensation the following day.

After turning the power off to the range, it was as simple as removing the screws for the broiler itself and the bracket and plugging in the new element. Yes, it was that easy.

1. Disconnected 120 VAC power supply from refrigerator. 2. Removed 2 philip screws from horizonal panel containing the thermostat. (Panel is in refrigerator section). 3. Removed plug module from panel which freed the panel which allowed me to remove panel to do repair. 4. Removed wires from thermostat (cold control), and mechanically removed thermostat from panel and installed new cold control (thermostat). Replaced wires on control. 5. Replaced panel and reinstalled 2 philips screws. 6. time to repair about 15 minutes.

I typed replacement fridge parts in google. Parts select.com came up. I found my fridge model # on the fridge and typed it in. A similar model # came up and I looked at the parts diagram. I determined what the piece was. I checked a couple other similar fridge model #'s to see if the part was the same. It was. Parts select made it so easy! I ordered the part on Monday in the afternoon... used regular shipping and had it in my hands by 9 am on Wednesday. I opened my fridge took out the collapsed bottom shelf (courtesy of my forever climbing 3 year old!) Installed the old glass and drawers in the new tray and Voila! as good as new! This couldn't of been a better experience from beginning to end,

After I bought what I thought I needed for the repair. I asked a friend to come over and look at it. He changed the
the light socket and put the same light bulb in and it works great. I am returning the light switch but decided to keep the light bulb.

Getting on the internet was so easy. This was really very simple. Thank you for making what I thought would be a big ordeal into something very simple.

Paulette Johnson

I spent more time turning off the breaker and opening the door than replacing the element.

Nut driver to remove the 2 screws, NN Pliers to remove the leads, remove the element and reverse the process.

Hope this isn't copyrighted..... so easy, a caveman could do it!

Just pop the old one out, careful not to lose the wiring inside the ref wall & popped the new one in.

easy as 1.2.3 remove and replace before even thinking. just to let you know i also do this for a living but it is one of the most difficult thing when you have to stop and fix your own

Just placed the new shelf in-doesn't get any easier than that! lol

The broiler uses two male slip-on connectors that attach to two wires with female connectors in the stove. When removing the broiler element, I discovered that one of the two wires was burned in half specifically where the wire crimped to the female connector. This is abnormal and raised some concern. However, I deduced that the terminal crimp from the factory must have been defective and the wire nicked or cut in order to produce enough heat at that point for the wire to burn and fail. The female crimp terminal is a special, solid right angle design that I was unable to locate locally even at an electrical wholesale distributor. A straight terminal connector was used and crimped after stripping a new section of the wire. Heat will melt solder. You must use a high quality crimp connector and tool. The connector was then very carefully angled down slightly to maintain a safe distance from the back shield of the stove to the wire when in place. The new broiler works fine. There was likely nothing wrong with the old one. Just a wiring issue.

Followed the instructions online, very simple, quick and painless.

Took out the broken one and put in the new one just as the vido showed me how to. Took about 2 minutes.