GTWN4250D1WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

This is so simple it's ridiculous. First, pull the "control knobs" off the front of the washer. Next, take the three screws (nut driver type) off the back panel then slide the loose front panel towards you and it's off. Take the part(s) you're replacing off-there are two sections joined by a flat electrical "cord" with a total of 5 nut driver screws (but a smaller size than the ones on the back panel). Tip the Control Board up from the bottom to pull it out of the unit. Unplug the 3 electrical contacts that go to the Electronic Control Board and throw away the old control board. Reverse steps to put it all back together. I did this all in less than 10 minutes. I'm pretty handy around the house, but if you know which end of a nut driver to grip, you can do it just as fast.

Disassembled washer removed shaft and drive tube assembly reinstalled new unit and replaced split nut during assembly.

I researched what could be the problem in the internet and follow the instructions from a GE technician, I chose the problem from a list and followed the video the technician played on how to do it yourself. This time was the lid switch which is found visible under the lid opening usually right middle flush with the opening. When I got the new lid, only the switch gets bad so I cut the cable enough to replace the old one, pulled out and cut and connected the new one. If there is not enough cable use the spatula to push the clips on the front panel on the top both side about 5 inches from the corner and pull panel out front and now you can see the wires better and make the connection.

I watched the video from the web site and the one that came with my invoice. This made it very easy to fix.I got the tools that I needed and went to town on the repair.

First I located the trouble. I noticed that it was water leaking and figured it had to be a hose. I took the front panel off of the washer and after noticing that the drain hose had a slight hole in it, realized that I could fix it and save myself a repair call. I undid the two hose clamps and removed the hose. I went to a local repair shop that could not guarantee the right part. I went online and found Parts Select.com. I entered minimal information and the picture of the item that I was looking for, the Drain Inlet Hose, was staring at me! Within 3 business days and less than 20 dollars spent, I repaired my washing machine. The total time spent to repair after I received the hose took about 10 minutes. I will definitely use parts select .com and recommend to all my friends and family. Thank you.

plugged on the wires and hase than snaped in place. the delay of the part was the hard part.

I replaced the hose between the tub and the pump. The only difficulty came with the accessibility of the problem area. I just pulled off the front panel of the machine and used a screwdriver and pliers to loosen the attachments and put the new hose in place.

replaced them & working fine now....

With screwdriver, I removed screws holding old hose in place. Attached new hose and screwed into place.

Unplug the washing machine. There are electrical components that can injure or kill you. Using a screw driver inserted just below the lid of the washer in the front, there are two (2) spring clips that you push on to release. Then the front of the washer tilts down and you remove it and set aside.
On the bottom right you will see the flexible, convoluted rubber hose connecting from the pump to the washer tub. Two (2) clamps hold the hose on. Remove the two clamps, install the new hose and re-install the clamps. Re-install the front panel and push into place, allowing clips to lock into the front panel.

It tooke some time to figure out where the water was leaking. It was from a small hole at the lateral side of the upper third of the drain inlet tube. Removing the hose was easy. Attaching it to the tub with a hose clamp was easy, but attaching the lower end to the pump motor was quite difficult because the spring clamp that had come with the washer was difficult to manipulate. I had to replace it with a band hose clamp.

By the way, the hole in the hose had been caused by rubbing the hose against the drain pipe from the motor to the sink.

Opened lid and place on agitator ... finished

I pulled on the bottom edges of the agitator, like the video said, until my fingers were numb. Finally, after I got aggravated, I beat the old agitator into a hundred pieces with a hammer and chisel. Then I slid the new agitator into place and gently tapped on the top of it. It snapped into place and has worked like a new one every since.

I followed the video from the website to install the lid switch. Worked like a charm. Great instructions. You do need to supply your own butt splice connectors .

The repair went just like the video! Easier than I would've hoped.