GTS22FBPARWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Change thermostat and temperature sensor in the freezer section, but did not resolved the problem. Ordered the Main Control Board. After replaced the Main Controller Board. Refrigerator is back to normal.

fallowed the short video and it was as easy as changing a light bulb

It was very tricky getting the old piece out, even though it was partially broken... I ended up snapping the old piece to remove it. Trying to install the new track with the glass shelf above was not working at all, but once I removed the glass shelf above it, the new piece went in pretty easily. With the glass shelf out, I could angle the track upward to get it into position. In retrospect, I should have removed the glass shelf from the start... it would have made removal of the old piece much easier.

We just pried off the fan blades and pushed on the new part. Could not have been easier. The rat has been permanently dipatched and, hopefully, that is that.

Removed shelves and light bulb. Undid the two screws on the back panel with nut driver. Snipped the two wire leads to the defrost thermostat. ( orange and pink wires) Carefully removed the defrost thermostat from the coil. Stripped both ends of the wire leads about a half inch and onnected with two wire nuts. Then wrapped with electrical tape to seal from moisture. Carefully attached defrost thermostat to coil. Screwed the back panel back on. Reinstalled light bulb and shelves. And plugged refrigerator back in. Works like a charm. Saved close to 100.00 dollars doing repair myself.

Defrost cycle staying on too long causing ice to melt, refreeze and seizing up ice maker. Replaced temp sensor and defrost thermostat just to be sure. Fixed the problem.

Took out shelf, unscrewed old track, screwed on new track. Only thing is not a standard flat or Phillips screw head so if you don't have a star head bit, you are out of luck.

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

I took the pan out, replaced the bar with the new part - slide pan RH - and I was back in business. It couldn't have been easier.

removed back panel from freezer. located thermostat removed and replaced thermostat put panel and all baskets back into freezer and plugged fridge back in. Works perfect problem solved

There were only 3parts listed to check omed out the defrost heater and thermostat ....thermistor checked bad ordered replacement took less than 2 minutes to replace after I defrosted it again runs fine

replaced the defrost thermostat. The "how to" video was superb. Watched it twice before beginning the job. repair went as described.

as per video

I have checked the defrost thermostat:During the defrosting cycle the thermostat is still open

My snack tray guide rail cracked and this was the easiest repair I've ever made.