GTS22FBPARCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Took out freezer rack took off the back panel also light bulb found the DEFROST THERMOSTAT cut the 2 wires remove the thermostat strip the wires on the new thermostat splice the to wires together with wire nut wrapped wire nuts with electrical tape put new thermostat back were the old came off of put panels back in place also the racks and bulb plunged in the power and guess what it works like a Champ with in 1 hour making ice and going through defrost cycle nice Thank You Guys for your video and the how to do Thanks Ken

I followed your video and completely dismantled the refrigerator evaporator motor, fan, brackets, and grommet, I completely cleaned the refrigerator including the cooling coils. I then ordered the evaporator motor ,fan, grommets, lid bumper, and brackets. The order would take a week to arrive. In the meantime I cleaned and reassembled all the old parts, waiting for the new ones to come. Guess what! The refrigerator was quiet as a mouse. I really did not need the new parts, but I kept them anyway just for good luck. Not bad for a refrigerator that's twenty four years old.

After unplugging the refrigerator-freezer and emptying out the contents I snipped off the refrigerator thermistor, stripped off the wire insulation and used a butt splice. That did not solve the problem. So, a day later I unplugged the refrigerator again, transferred the freezer contents to a newly purchased small freezer unit, took off the back panel inside the freezer portion, and saw a large amount of ice build-up on the silver coils inside. This ice was quickly melted off using a hair dryer and packing towels below this accumulated ice. Then I snipped off the two freezer thermister sensors and the defrost sensor. I soldered the wires together for a hard splice, wrapped the individual wires with rubber electrical tape, and then wrapped that with plastic electrical tape. After re-assembly, the refrigerator-freezer has been working flawlessly for over a week at optimal temperatures.

Must have spent 10+ hours solid looking up info on the internet. Our ice maker had broken years ago, the door flap had broken years ago and I thought this was the end of a fridge after just 6 years 8 months.

GE offered a "broken appliance" warranty for $379 for one year, with no guarantee that when a technician came to look at it, the repairs would be covered by the warranty!!! No thank you, you just want me to buy a new fridge. Okay, challenge on, I'll fix it myself.

I took everything from the back of the freezer out. Spent an hour defrosting (note: use hair dryer next time). Ruled out a motherboard problem (even though it appears I have the old style motherboard), removed dust build up from fan intake. I could not get the heater to come on, so I cut off the thermostat defroster and connected the wires together. The only way to get the heater on was to set the freezer control to 0 / zero.

So, ordered part from partselect.com and it arrived the next day!!!. Installed and unit appears to be defrosting okay after a week.

So now I'm back to order the ice maker part. The door flap will wait for another time.

Note: I've put in the time for novices and recognizing how the freezer is constructed.

Time includes taking everything out of the freezer section, unscrewing everything, diagnosing problem, fixing the problem, putting everything back. I would say allow 3-4 hours and pat yourself on the back if you do it quicker.

Note#2, if you have a large build up there is a hole in the floor of the freezer section. If the water does not evaporate it will run out of the hole and into your wooden floors! Place towels both inside and outside the unit just in case!

Gaskets designed to just press a flange into channel around doors. I tried everything..I pre-heated gaskets ; I put dish soap around flange; I used (carefully) a heat gun as I pressed gasket in. Really very difficult to get the gasket to seat fully. I don't know if there is a tool to help you do this, but you need strong fingers/thumbs and endurance. Once seated, you will need to heat the gasket to get it to fully seal against the fridge. Just lightly heat along the gasket with the doors closed and press open the fold with your fingers. I let the doors stay closed over night. Works great now, but I probably will call a repairman the next time. I miss the old gaskets with a zillion screws..PITA, but easier.

I have not yet done the repair. After watching this repair video two problems came to mind. First I only ordered one grommet not knowing that there were two (or more I don't yet know). The second problem is that this video must be for a fridge from like the 1940, but it looks NOTHING like mine from 2008. The manual shows a bazillion parts and frankly I'm just a wee bit afraid to get started, and I am generally very handy, buuuttttttttt I don't know about this one

turn off the refrigerator,then open the cover and saw lot of ice. then get a hair dryer blower and blow a heat to melt the ice. cut the thermostat defrost.

Easy

Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.

Nothing much. It needed the snack pan, which it has never had.
The door was the main issue. My young son would hang on the door. We started having problems with it not closing. Then on day it snapped off. We repaired the screw but found the hole was stripped out. We moved the door to the other side. When the door fell off it broke the upper door shelf. This was a quick slide in repair that did not require any tools.

first removed two srews removed rear panel hair dryer to melt ice (took 30 minutes) cut two wires to thermostat spliced onto new part clipped it onto tube -done replace rear panel and 2 screws. very easy job after reading other letters and their experience -saved myself $500.00

Find online diagram of freezer section for reference. Disconnect power, remove evap cover plate (214) by removing one of the drawer guide rails.

As evidence of your problem, you might see a giant block of ice built up around the coil. Let this defrost this before continuing.

Find THERMOSTAT DEFROST (24) sensor and clip connecting wires. Match replacement sensor wires by color. Twist and solder wires; or wire-nuts and twisting alone might be okay. If not soldering, seal the wire-nuts connections from moister with a good sizeable piece of duct tape. Make sure your wires are out of the way and not left dangling on the evap heater coil, where they could melt.

Suggest concurrent replacement of evap fan motor if this has not already been done in the past.. This become noisy with age and damage from the ice build up seems to have made mine worse.

I followed the instructional video. It was right on the money for accuracy in terms of part location and method of replacement.

I took off the back panel in the freezer. Located the wires going to the old thermostat, cut them with wire cutters. I then spliced the matching wires together and attached the part to the coil tube (There is a little clip on the part, be sure to do this because I forgot and had to go back and do this again!!!).

I ordered the part but my husband had to work out of town for a week. The fridge kept getting warmer, so when the part came I just watched the video on the internet, (bit the bullet) and did the repair just as I saw it done on the video. It was simple and exactly the same as the video. It took a little longer for me because there was a lot of ice built up on the coils, so I used my hair dryer to melt the ice. My refridgerator is working great now.