GTS18KHPB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

I must thank yo for sending the fan so fast. If I ever have to deal with any appliance again, you are first on my list.

easy - replaced it

i am totally impressed with your company how effective it is.... i will go to yours if anything is broken or replaced

thanks

I had made a dry run at the repair after watching the instructional film provided by part select and it seemed easy enough.
The only problem was that i needed to use the electrical cord extender (provided) to adapt to my plug type. That presented a problm because it needed to be tucked up out of the way to allow the ice bin to clear. Just needed to be creative in how you wrapped the cord behind the ice maker unit before snugging the attachment screws.
Cranking out ice like crazy.

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

I shut off the water main, unplugged the fridge and unscrewed the cardboard plate in the back of the fridge. I then removed the old valve from the refrigerator with a socket wrench, removed the hoses and solenoids and then connected all of them to the new valve. I then screwed the new valve back into place and replaced the cardboard plate. The difficult part was getting access to the back of the fridge and valve, it was pretty straightforward aside from that. Unfortunately the fix did not work and no ice or water is being provided from the fridge. There is no circuit board to replace on this model so I am at a loss as to what it could be. The fridge makes noises on occasion which sounds like the ice maker calling for water, but no water gets to the fill valve. Any feedback would be appreciated.

i took the backing off with a screwdriver, cut the wires and put the 2 wires on that came with the thermostat. p.s. make sure you pull the power plug before you start.

Up plug from wall removed rear access cover in freezer let thaw out and replace two wire sensor had previously checked out knowing the defrost strip was good and the defrost thermostat was visually deformed and tested open at freezing and 40 degrees

Installed it by hand with my son and myself. Hard ot figure it out and found another part broken. Did not figure out how the screws went in or what they attached to.

I followed your video and completely dismantled the refrigerator evaporator motor, fan, brackets, and grommet, I completely cleaned the refrigerator including the cooling coils. I then ordered the evaporator motor ,fan, grommets, lid bumper, and brackets. The order would take a week to arrive. In the meantime I cleaned and reassembled all the old parts, waiting for the new ones to come. Guess what! The refrigerator was quiet as a mouse. I really did not need the new parts, but I kept them anyway just for good luck. Not bad for a refrigerator that's twenty four years old.

Had to defrost the freezer to melt off all the ice before servicing. Once that was done the icemaker replacement only took about 15-30 minutes to complete. The new icemaker came with many accessories and adaptors that were not needed and the instructions were based on replacing an older model and not really clear for my model. They mentioned not being able to use the new stripper but it was exactly the same as the old one so I left the new one in place. All in all it was easy and did the job.

Removed icemaker from freezer,
Removed 3 screws from cover plate, and removed screw securing main gear, removed gear.
Pulled back cover plate to expose switches and mechanism.
Removed screw holding switch to remove switch, and installed new switch.
I should have taken a pic of the cover plate, the interior mechanism and the wiring as I went along. It would have saved me 45 minutes in reassembly. Also, as luck would have it, I reversed the wiring on the switch. So off was on, and I had to remove it, switch wires and re-install.
But it works!

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

-Empty the freezer
-Take the cover in the back of the freezer off
-Melt the ice off the coils (heat gun, hot water, etc.)
-Cut the wires off the old sensor and connect the new sensor using a soldering iron or some other method.
-Cover the spliced wire with heat shrink, electrical tape or some other method.
-Reassemble the cover

Done!

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.