GTS18IBRW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Take out both vegetable drawers. Lift back of shelf first then front until you hear the click from both front sides. The shelf should now be loose and you can take fully out. Remove the glass shelf from the plastic frame by turning the shelf over and pulling back and up from the rear part of the glass. Put the glass into the new plastic frame by doing the same technique. Then put the shelf back into the fridge by the resting the shelf down in the correct position and pushing the front of the shelf until you hear the click again on each side. slide the drawers back into place and you are done!

2 screws. how easy can i get.

My fridge came with only a single snack pan, and since the glass shelves are identical I decided to order the parts needed for installing the second snack pan. The glass shelf is secured in front by a round plastic pin protruding from the side of the fridge. Once the shelf is lifted upward and free of this pin, the rear retaining ears on the metal shelf side brackets can be released from the vertical-slotted metal track at the rear of the fridge. Make certain that you have the Right and Left snack pan slides oriented correctly, and positioned on the correct side of the metal shelf brackets. You’ll need to thread two self-tapping screws into each of the snack pan slides: one near the front, and the other at the rear. These screws extend through the metal side brackets into pre-aligned holes in each pan slide. When this is completed, you can test-fit the new clear plastic pan slide (drawer) into the slides to make sure it fits correctly. All that's left to do is insert the retaining ears into the appropriate pair of slots at the rear, then lower the front of the glass shelf until it's properly positioned over the plastic support pin. Now you're ready to enjoy twice the snack pan capacity as before!

took the old stop off put the new stop on

replace the bar lift top off

Because the kit did not include fasteners, had to use wood screws and superglue.

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

Looking at the schematic I found in the back of the unit, it appeared that there were not many parts associated with the problem. I removed the Overload/PTC and run Capacitor as a single unit. Although the capacitor was listed as the most likely problem part I decided to order both items since small particles of non-ferous material were falling out of the Overload/PTS plastic case. I installed both parts as a unit and plugged the refrigerator in. The compressor did not come on so I figured that there were other problems. After about 15 minutes I returned to the unit and found it running. It is now quieter than it has ever been. I now feel that the defective part was the Overload/PTC unit and not the capacitor.

I followed advice from other posts on this web site. The only thing additional I'd recommend is to take pictures of assemblies before you disassemble them. A neighbor gave me that useful tip. It should be noted that I first noticed my refrigerator failure back on June 22, 2012. I hired a reputable local repair service to fix it. They replaced the Defrost heater (item 618) and charged me $ 208.14. Then on August 22nd, I noticed that the problem resurfaced. I decided to fix it myself using info from site. The repair went well, and I'm hopeful that it will stay repaired. Kudos to this site!

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

removed freezer panel,found the evap.iced up,put defrost timer into defrost. wated five min.no heat used hair dryer to defrost evap.found termination visually defective.replace defective part.no call back.Iam a EPA certified universal technician.

Simply unplug fridge, remove air duct mounted on rear panel, release panel itself, pull fan blade off, disconnect grounding wire, detach fan motor bracket, disconnect wire harness to release fan motor, install new fan motor and reconnect, secure with bracket, reconnect grounding wire, reposition fan blade onto motor shaft, reinstall rear panel and secure screws. Remount air duct and plug appliance back in. This is the second motor that was replaced since 2002. The 1st motor dies after 5-6 years.

Just unscrewed old handles & screwed in the new one. Very easy. Have a good Phillips head screw driver.

per your instructions

HI I am Stoyan. I had a problem with my refrigerator. The freezer produces a lot of ice, but the refrigerator was warm. I try to find what other people comment on this site partselect.com. I decided that the thermostat is damaged. I ordered the thermostat from partselect.com and I had the delivery within 24 h. and I was very happy with the fast delivery service .I saw a video on the same site how they show how to do myself the change of the thermostat. I took the hairdryer from my wife to defrost the refrigerator for 40 minutes and removed the old thermostat. I decided to test the heater with a 9 volts electricity from a portable charger for a car. I made an electric circuit chain and on the end of the heater I saw that there was 9 volts electricity and I understood they are ok. I changed the thermostat for 5 minutes, looking very carefully to match the colors of the cables. For $ 11, I saved money to buy a new refrigerator or pay a big bill to a repair service. Thank you for the video that helped me very much. My refrigerator work well.