GTR22KSWARSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

When the condensor fan motor started making those "Dying Mouse" noises I knew it was time to replace it. So I removed the fan motor and re-oiled it's lubricating packing, reinstalled it and promptly ordered a repacement moter online from PartSelect. I've ordered parts from them in the past with great results and rapid shipping. So now the "Dying Mouse" has been evicted and my wife is happy. And everyone should know, ( If Momma ain't happy, Then nobody's happy.) Thanks again PartSelect for your fast, reliable parts source with very reasonable prices.

I removed cover above the light from the back of the freezer. I removed the fan and clipped the wire leads, after disconnecting the breaker to the fridge. I connected the wires with wire "union" from Radio Shack. Could have used wire nuts. I put the breaker on to check that it was running, then put the cover back on. However, to fix the build up of ice on the coils in the back of the freezer, I also replaced the thermisor and the heater coil after defrosting the coils with a hair dryer. Both were easy repairs and the fridge works fine.

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

There were only 3parts listed to check omed out the defrost heater and thermostat ....thermistor checked bad ordered replacement took less than 2 minutes to replace after I defrosted it again runs fine

as per video

Very easy to order the part, perfect match, video was greatest help. Saved me over 200.00, what it would cost for a repair man Great place to get alliance parts.

This was as easy as it comes and a whole heck of a lot cheaper than buying a new fridge. This is our second fridge, which we need but I hated the thought of buying another one. The old seal pulled off in 2.2 seconds and the new one snapped right in place. If it wasn't for the 5 minutes it took for me to get a couple of kinds out with a hairdrier, I would have completed the whole project in under 2 minutes, yes 120 seconds. It's that easy.

Pull the old off ..put new one on

It was simple. Unpluged fan two screws remove from fan bracket unplug old fan replace with new one put fan in place out screws back plugged in fan then plugged in fridge fixed problem. And save a repair cost call out. A.J.

I followed the instructions on your YouTube video exactly and it was a snap. By far the hardest part of the repair was to fit the back tab of the fan assembly in the tight slot on the way out. The result was immediate and like having a new refrigerator. I'm a 68-yo retired woman but thanks to you I now feel empowered -- will tackle next appliance repair with confidence. Thank you.

Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.

My son replaced both temperature sensors and the fridge works great now!!! Like brand new again!!!!

What an awesome site! After putting in my model number and finding the problem I was having, I simply picked the 2 parts that were most likely to solve the problem. I bought a defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. To a high certainty, they would solve my problem. They didn't however! I ended up having to buy a temperature sensor on another order a few weeks later when the problem resurfaced! My own fault. I should have bought it the first time. As others have written: the longest part of the job is defrosting the ice from the coil. One thing I did that I didn't see suggested: plug the drain hole below the coil. I put a couple towels in the bottom of the freezer and ran the hair dryer. Didn't take long. I read that the amount of water created will overflow the pan under the refrigerator, so I plugged the drain hole. Once you clean that mess up, the repair is pretty straight forward. Great site. Even through I had to make two separate purchases, I still saved a lot of money. Thanks!

First, I had to remove the freezer drawer front. This is 8 large phillips head screws. then remove the plastic cover over the drawer slides. to do this, remove the white center screw from the slide near where it attaches to the drawer front. then the plastic cover will slide off pushing to the rear of the slide. take off the slides from the freezer walls by removing the phillips screws and pulling them towards you. They have tabs/slots in the rear. remove the center tray support and support bars, too. the icemaker has to come out, that is just 2 phillips screws but you also have to disconnect the electrical connector. just squeeze the locking wings and rock/pull. a screw in the top center of the back panel comes out. Lift and pull the back panel out. The evaporator coil appears. The thermocouple is attached to the coil in the upper right. Cut that one's wires and take it out. Just cut back about an inch from the back of the thermocouple, there is not much slack. Seperate and strip the wires back about 3/8 inch. Do the same for the new thermocouple. I twisted the wires together and used a solder sleeve to join the wires. The sleeve is just a little plastic tube that has a ring of solder in it that melts with heat gun heat. You can join the wires using butt connectors or whatever method appeals to you. I just wound the extra wire and put a cable tie around it, there is plenty of hiding space in that area. Make sure the new thermocouple is contacting the coil firmly.At this point, for a test, I left everything apart, propped the drawer against the opening and plugged the fridge in. Note that the evaporator fan will not start spinning immediately! It will just sit there making little bumps like it wants to go. The temp in the coil has to get settled before the electronics in the refridge will tell the fan to spin. It takes maybe 20 minutes. Reassemble. Fridge and freezer work great. It does take several hours for all to get cold again.

1. Removed and tested defrost heater, tests good. 2. Reinstalled defrost heater. 3. Removed and tested defrost over-temperature sensor, tests good. 4. Reinstalled over-temperature sensor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 5. Removed the control printed circuit board and checked for blown fuse's, fuse's are all good. 6. Removed the defrost relay from the printed circuit board using soldering iron, bench tested the relay, it is good. 7. Soldered defrost relay back onto the circuit board, and reinstalled control board. 8. Removed and bench tested evaporator thermistor, the resistance is out of specification, ordered new thermister. 9. Installed new thermistor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 10. Re-assembled refrigerator. 11. Installed temperature monitoring and recording instrumentation for 72 hour test. The defrost cycle is running correctly with a defrost termination temperature of around 90 deg-f. The defrost cycle ran twice while running the 72 hour test. 11. Removed test instrumentation and Put the unit back into service, The thermistor was the culprit. I bought the right part on the first shot, nice.