GSS25IYNYHFS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced light switch. Defrost cycle remains suspect but refrigerator has worked OK for about 10 days.

Things fall out of my refrigerator frequently thus the broken lite switch. Thought tape would solve until new part arrived. Thank goodness part came the next day as even with tape on and door close and light bulbs removed fridge read door as open and would not cool It is programmed not to run with door open. Within 24 hours part was delivered, unbelievable . It was that fast. Easy insertion and plugged in to the wiring and my refridge once more recognized the door was shut and began cooling. Thanks again

pulled out the old shelf/drawer frame and replaced with new one. Easy fix.

and a rat recently got trapped in the house while the owner was away. The rat chewed the grill quite a bit too. The repair was accomplished using a phillips screwdriver on the two screws which attach the grille to the refrig.

It couldn't be easier. Just pry out the old broken switch with a flat blade screwdriver. start at the bottom in case you scratch the door by accident. When the bottom is out - pull the switch out slowly and disconnect the two wires that are attached to the top, taking care to remember which color lead is connected to which wire. Then, take the new switch and connect the proper wires to their respective terminals and push the switch into the slot. Done!

No tools needed - simply a middle hydrator drawer replacement. Pulled out old (broken) drawer and slid in new replacement.

slipped the part in , attached the spring, that was all it took

i followed all the other submited solutions. really easy. popped out the broken light switch with thin tip screwdriver. careful not to let wires slip into compartment. then attached wires as i pulled them off broken switch. then carefully pop the new switch back in the slot. when i was younger i worked for an appliance repair company. i felt confident in this repair.

Remove the ice bucket assy. Slider attaches with two screws in the left hand side and one thru the icemaker that attaches it to the track. Just about as easy as it gets.

Took old tray out put new tray in

Pried out the old light switch, disconnected electrical, reconnected electrical in new switch, pushed new switch back into door.

Used a small screw driver to remove the damaged switch. Carefully unhooked the two wires and hooked the wires to the new switch. Pushed the new switch into place. Be careful that the wires do not pull back into the refrigerator wall. Took about 15 minutes. Works like New. Easy fix.

Pried the switch on the bottom with a flathead screwdriver, twisted it and the switch came out far enough to take it out by hand. The bottom of the switch has to be raised upward a little because the connectors are on top of the switch. Changed the wires from the old switch to the new one, one at a time. Insert the new switch. Saved a repair call, and probably a more expensive switch. Less then 15 minutes.

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

Removed rer cover, unplugged starter assembly from side of compressor and replaced unit with a new one. Plugged fridge in and it works good.