GSS23QGTC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove ice holding box. Remove rear plastic cover (nut driver) Unplug two Electrical connectors. Place unit on work bench. Remove 'U' fork, vice grip on shaft and scewdiver as lever on fork (counter clockwise) Remove motor fron plastic Holder. Install new motor & fork. Reverse removal steps. Actually very simple procedure. Usual cost for this typwe of repair is approx. $300.00.

Replaced flapper

Dispencer quit working a year ago, but still still dispenced water. I talked to a service technician about it. He told me the electric motor was froze up, so I orderd a new one. When it arrived I installed it in about 20 minnutes,tried the dispencer and still would not work but this time the water would not dispence eather and this time I noticed the fan quit running and the light went dim when I tried to dispence ice. So I read the customers diagnosis and repares every thing pointed to the main control board, orderd the part and water filter. When they arrived in three days I watched installing this part video and it took me 20 minnutes to install and every thing works fine.

After I bought what I thought I needed for the repair. I asked a friend to come over and look at it. He changed the
the light socket and put the same light bulb in and it works great. I am returning the light switch but decided to keep the light bulb.

Getting on the internet was so easy. This was really very simple. Thank you for making what I thought would be a big ordeal into something very simple.

Paulette Johnson

look very carefully at the picture you provided in the parts fish, removed the ice maker tray and the rest was very easy ,i saved alot of money and time doing it myself.

This repair was very simple to do. I cannot say enough about part select dot com. I feel that I am a definite handy man yet the videos on the part select dot com site proved to be valuable. This video showed and reminded me that the plastic bushing holding the auger on was reverse threaded. Being a rightee tightee leftee loossee person embedded in my head I would have worn out that bushing holding the auger in place. I recommend not only purchasing from partselect.com YET please watch the video on this site prior to this installation. This made the installation not only simple yet informative. Thanks!

Turned off power, removed cover from Ice maker, checked resistance across thermostat for zero (read open), all other switches read proper value (when activated). Ordered and received thermostat. Removed Ice Maker from freezer, removed two screws holding ice tray to Control Assembly. Removed Thermostat and replaced with new one. Applied Silicone Sealant to face of Thermostat for adhesion to ice tray when assembled. Remounted Ice Tray to Control Assembly and remounted in freezer. Works Great...

Thanks to others who also gave some detailed instruction on repairs I was able to do the same. I have a GE Profile side by side refrigerator/freezer Model No. PSC25PSSCSS The first repair I did was to remove/replace freezer defrost thermostat sensor that is cliped to condenser tube I snipped the wires close to the thermostat and pulled it off the tube I stripped the ends of the wires and twisted the strands then placed a piece of heat shrink tube onto the wire pushing it away from the exposed wire then I soldered the two color coded wires together then I pulled the heat shrink over the conection and used a lighter to heat up the heat shrink until it sealed the conection repeating this on the othr wire as well. I then removed the Old defrost Heater element by removing to screws then I disconected the two wires by simply pulling the connector plugs off both ends of the heater element assembly. This fixed the freezer being too warm for a short time but it started getting warm again that's when I noticed the defrost fan was not working, when you have the door open to freezer push the door switch in you should hear the fan come to life and blow hard. The fan was replaced I had to remove everything to get to it it's pretty simple to do it just unplugs make sure you order the right fan though My fan comes with the Thermistor already integrated into the plug this makes it easier. This fixed the problem with both Freezer & Refrigerator The Temperatures returned to normal Freezer 0 degrees Refrigerator 37 degrees I also checked out the refrigerator side Condenser I noticed only that the Condensate pan was starting to rust so I will remove it and use some Muretic acid to clean it up and then spray it with some Cold Gavanize with Zinc you can get this spray paint at Home Depot it seals and prevents rust. Or you can order a new one for about $ 16 bucks but it will start rusting just like the old one did eventually if you do order a new Condensate Pan I suggest spraying it before you reinstall it so that it will not rust. Greg H. Eldorado, AR

i used the video it showed on the site or iwould not have been able to do it

Remove lower front panel, disconnect damaged union from water hose under freezer door, replace with new union, tighten and reattach front panel. No more water coming from under the unit. Ice maker and dispenser features returned to working order!

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

First I turned the refrigerator and water line off. Then moved to the freezer section, followed the directions, removed the two screws. Directions state to not remove them but I had to in this case. Unplugged the ice maker and removed it from the freezer. I installed the two mounting screws then tried to plug the electrical connection back in but had to use the adaptor cord furnished in the kit. The cord was a little long but I tucked it in and mounted the ice maker. Turned it on then turned the refrigerator and water back on and in a few hours had ice! Very easy to do!

Removed the ice tray and then the auger unit from the tray assembly. To accomplish auger removal, the auger assembly is attached to the tray assemble at the front. On the front bottom there two screws. Back them out. Then on the top of the tray assembly the auger assembly is held in position by two tabs. Depress them with a finger or thumb. Do not use a screw driver as this may result in breaking the plastic tab! The auger assembly will separate. The crusher plate easily separates from the auger assembly and is removed buy "spiraling" the plate up and off the auger itself. Simply reverse to install new plate.
Recommendation: Take this opportunity to thoroughly clean and COMPLETELY DRY all components prior to re-assemble and re-install into the refrigerator.

Ice maker assembly removed from refrigerator and disassembled. Note nylon nut holding the Augur in place is removed clockwise. As you take the assembly apart, note each piece for reassembly.

I downloaded a schematic of the ice dispensing unit. The whole unit pulls out and there are a couple of screws that remove plastic covers. The "trick" was to get the two plastic tabs pushed in and lift the auger unit out of the tray - a two person job! We used knife blades (it was the thinist and strongest tool around) to push the tabs in and pry the auger assembly out. I think we did a great job NOT breaking the plastic pieces! As careful as I was, I definately needed the schematic to put the ice crushing blades and spacers back together. All of this could be avoided if they used a metal auger instead of plastic!