GSK25LGTACCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

We opened the box, unpacked the drawer, washed and dried it, installed it! No muss, no fuss!

Simply removing parts from the old frame and installing them on the new frame and putting everything back in the refrigerator to include the glass.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

I made my wife fix it.

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

looked up the part on your site which was very quick and easy. Ordered the part and it came quickly and my installation was just as quick. Greatful for your web site Regards John

It was so darn easy! Took less then 10 minutes to fix. Self explanatory no instructions needed! Very cool!

Snapped it into place. Nothing to it!

I just snapped in the new side to the shelf ...very simple and easy:-)

removed 6 screws and repaced cover.

Knew the switch was bad. Researched on the internet how to fix. Used a steak knife to pop the old one out, changed the contacts to the new switch and popped it back in. It took longer to open the box than it did to replace the switch. And the part arrived 2 days after I ordered it.

Unplug the refrigerator. Gently pry old switch out with screw driver. Move wires to connector on new switch with needle nose pliers. Pop it back into the hole. Plug back in. Peek inside to see the lights working.

+The shelf face has little plastic locator clips that snapped off. the shelf face just comes off with a light lift of these two clips and a slight upward pull then lift up and off. The new one slips on with the top slipping onto the top rail of shelf, then push the bottom tow clips over the bottom rail of the shelf. There you have it smooth as glass.

We were able to easily remove the existing clear section of the door shelves and replace them with the part we ordered from partselect.com. We needed to contact customer service during the order – they were efficient and friendly. The parts came quickly and were easily installed.