GSG20IBMCFWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I took the ice maker out then the panels that closes in the evaporator coil. Disconnected the defrost censer and tested it with an ice bath. The censer did not close the circuit. So it's bad. I got the parts .(Very fast I might add. The PartSelect team did a great job of getting it to me). I the stripped the wires and spliced the like colors back together and tested the censer again with an ice bath. It closed this time. I started the frig and have not heard anything from the client. In this case "No news is good news". Thanks PartSelect

Removed food from Freezer, Unplugged refrigerator. Removed light bulb cover and ligt bulb. Unplugged and removed Ice maker and motor. Removed air duct cover from motor. Unplugged and removed evaporator housing and fan. Pulled fan blade off. Unscrewed brackets from fan motor, removed dust cap from top of motor and grommet from bottom. New motor came with 6 pin connector and four pins for evaporator fan motor. Cut the harness grommet to separate the light bulb wiring from the evaporator motor's. Pushed the the old light bulb pins (red and orange) from old connector and push them in to the new fan motor connector. Reversed the process and no more noise

I took off the back panel in the freezer. Located the wires going to the old thermostat, cut them with wire cutters. I then spliced the matching wires together and attached the part to the coil tube (There is a little clip on the part, be sure to do this because I forgot and had to go back and do this again!!!).

All the rest of everyone's post are all what I did. The only other thing I recommend is to put the back panel over the evaporator coils when your done. I replaced defrost thermostat, and heater. Once I initially completed it it kept icing over more than usual. You have to put the back panel back on so airflow goes over the coils.

My Ge top freezer fefrigerator was going into defrost mode and the heater was staying on for too long causing the food to thaw and eventually refreeze. Originally thought it was the mother board but after researching and do some troubleshooting of my own I realized the defrost terminating thermostat was bad. $8 part from Parts Select. Accessed the evaporator by removing back wall plate. Located thermostat and cut two lead wires to it. Spliced in new thermostat and reattached to eveaporator. Refrigerator seems to be good as new. There is an installation video on the web page that shows you step by step proceedure.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Remove the shelves then remove the back by removing the two screws at the top of the panel. Locate the temperature sensor on top of the coil. Cut the wires and replace with the new one. Use wire nuts and electrical tape to reconnect the wires.

The problem began when freezer thawed and could not keep food frozen. Initially, I thought the issue was the defrost heater (because I had seen similar symptoms previously and resolved the issue with a new defrost heater)and I replaced that part with a spare that I had puchased previously. The issue was still unresolved and I noticed the evaporator fan was not running in the freezer because it would not turn on when I closed the door. I checked to make sure I could hear the compressor working (and it was)and concluded that the evaporator fan motor was not running. I ordered the part and found a YouTube DIY video on how to replace it. While I was at work, my fiancee took it upon herself to watch the installation video and install the new evaporator fan motor and all is well.

I watched the videos before I received my parts. I thawed the freezer out, removed the panel in the back. Cut the wires to the defrost thermostat and spliced the new one on with wire nuts and tape. Then I did the same for the temp. sensor. Put it all back together. Now the freezer isn't running all the time. I set the temperatures back to normal and it seams to be fine.

I decided to replace motor and fan, having previously altered/trimmed the fan which stopped the howling but caused a vibration. Unplug from mains. Clear out two top shelves in freezer. Remove light cover. Remove two screws(1/4 driver)at top of steel panel in rear of compartment and let it drop. Remove two screws above light. Pry up section above light/fan housing to access two screws retaining the light/fan assembly, loosen screws sufficiently so that assembly can be lifted and removed. Disconnect wiring plug by pinching in the sides of the plug and pulling out. Pull fan off motor shaft. Remove two screws clamping motor. Cut cable tie and molded wiring grommet to free wiring. The existing light wires can be removed from the old plug by carefully cutting around the old plug to free the pins and then pushing the pins into the new plug. Reverse procedure to assemble.

replace sensor in refriger.

The replacement went very well. The video was not just as the unit I have but with a little work I worked it out. The service was very good. I received the part in 1 Day. Thanks for the good info. Keep up the good work regarding the videos. This helped. Just for the info. I did a post mortem of the switch. The strain of the wires pulling on the switch caused the failure of the switch. The design of the old temp switch was bad and workmanship was very poor in the original box. Thanks again Ron

We used partselect troubleshooting appilication to figure out what was most likely causing the problem and what part would fix it. The suggested part was the freezer's defrost thermostat and the probability that this would fix it was 52%! The diagnosis made sense because when we emptied the freezer to see the part, the coils were frozen solid with a thick layer of ice. We thawed the ice and the refrigerator worked fine for a day and a half at which point the ice was back and the refrigerator was warm again. We ordered the part. It came in 2 days. We snipped two wires and removed the old part, twisted the wires of the new one in place, taped it up and it worked! Fast, easy, cheep! $8 For the part, about the same for shipping and no $70 service call. Selectparts is bookmarked for "house repair"!

I followed the video instructions online and the job went very smoothly. Unfortunately, the problem is still occuring [this of couse is no fault of yours] there must be another problem to remedy. Really appreciate the videoThanks Parts Select for excellent product and quick delivery

After on two occessions from a refrigeration man who did not fix it I decided to work on it myself. Knowing it was not the overload relay or capacitor I changed the temperature control board but without success, next I took the main control biard, located on the back lower left off for inspection and found that there was a contact terminal on one of the relays melted, after resouldering contact I reinstaled the board and then plug back my refrigerator into the outlet and there it goes like brand new. It was quite easy and quick to do because the board has precisely matching plug-in-terminal wiring harness, for diconnect and reconnect, very smart way. To remove cover for access, take board off, fix and replace, it took me aproxmately fifteen minuites, only using a quarter inch stud driver. Great way. So thrust yourself and save some $Bucks. Reynold.