GSF26C4EXF02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug, then on the freezer side, remove the drawers, then remove the screws holding the sheet metal cover, remove the rails (for the drawer) that interfere with removing the sheet metal cover. pull the wires off the motor. There is a big plastic piece that holds a small plastic piece that holds the motor. Remove the plastic piece that holds the motor/fan (you might be able to swap the motor by removing the little plastic piece that holds the motor, or you can remove the bigger piece and then remove the small piece that holds the motor). Pull the fan blade off (to reuse), swap the motor. NOTE - the new motor wire terminals may be on the opposite side of the motor vs. the old motor - that is not a problem - there is plenty of room for the wires. After the motor is installed put the fan blade back on, reinstall the removed plastic pieces in the back of the refrigerator. Now, I'd suggest a quick test. Make sure the new motor works and the fan blows before you button it up. Once you know it works, power it off, and put the sheet metal cover back on, reinstall the basket brackets, put the baskets back in place, close the door, and turn it back on.

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.

Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.

Unhooked water line from house to fridge then unbolted valve from fridge body then removed plastic water line from fridge to valve by pushing in on pex release tab then reversed process with new valve. Works like a charm. No more leakage. Wood floor is dry and Happy!

Took it out of the box. Emptied the ice out of the broken bin. Slid the new one in and all done.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

First I had to figure out how to get the old unit out so I could work on it. The three screws that others wrote about were the ones that hold the motor in place. There are 3 screws holding the ice maker in the frame, along with one screw covering the electrical connection. The electrical connection was difficult to unplug because the locking tab was on the back side of the connection and with no room to work in the freezer it didn't become apparent until several frustrating minutes went by. There were no instructions provided, the picture on the ordering page showed the complete ice maker, and for $80 you get a printed circuit board with a small round item which must be the motor/timer control. The two plastic parts for moving the ice from the ice maker were included but not replaced because I didn't notice them until I had finished replacing the ice maker back in the freezer and wasn't going to start over again.
Once installed, there wasn't any noise, even of water flowing like the old one, could not tell if the unit was working or not. In the morning there was new ice in the bin indicating the repair had been successful. This is like anything else, if you have done it before it is a 5 minuter job but when you have to look at it and try to figure it out it takes a bit longer. All in all, it was simple enough, I was expecting a complete ice maker unit like was in the picture when ordered but only the motor module was actually needed.
We have another refrigerator/freezer that has an icemaker that is over 20 years old and has never been repaired, it is a Sears model though, probably made by Whirlpool or someone else.

The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.

I used the computer to enter the make and model of the refrigerator with the icemaker unit. We looked at the diagram to identify the name of the part and then ordered it. It was sent out the next day! We received it and installed it and it works perfect!

Took lower back board off, took part off to expose it so I could see where it was leaking, got part number, ordered it.
Shut off water to frig at wall shut off, unhooked both hoses and plug, hooked new part up, turned water back on. Watched couple days to make sure it wasn't leaking. Vacuumed out back good, which I was amazed didn't really need it, hooked part back in place, replaced back with screws.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

I removed the filter from the box I took the old filter out and inserted the new air filter put the cover down and that was it.

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.