GSE23GSKPCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

By reading another customers tip I decided that my problem was the exact same. I had to order the entire motor not just the auger because the motor shaft was stripped. Once you remove the motor, hold the shaft with a pair of vise grips and use a screw driver to turn the auger off clockwise. The threads are reversed. The new auger screws easily onto the new motor counterclockwise and installing back into the fridge was a snap.

Easy fix, but they don't give you plenty of wire to work with. When I pulled the switch out it only had about an inch of wire that came with it. meaning if I didn't have a grasp on the wires as I was removing the switch they would have slipped back up the opening

1) Use plastic spudgers to remove the front control panel by levering on the front bottom of the plastic
2) Unscrew 4 retaining screws from the internal assembly
3) Slide clear plastic ice chute from the internal assembly
4) Lift the paddle 90 degrees to remove it
5) Place the spring on the paddle lug such that the long side fits in the groove on the back
6) Press the spring back, and slide the paddle into the paddle holder at a 90 degree angle
7) Once installed the short side of the spring should press against the plastic to force the paddle to its default position
8) Slide the ice chute back into the assembly
9) Replace the 4 screws holding the assembly to the refrigerator
10) Replace the front control panel

I may have missed a step here or there, but nothing major. Be mindful of the switches, and the placement of the wires. The entire process took maybe 5 minutes. I would say the most difficult part is getting the control panel off, it kind of feels like it might break, but it's a pretty robust piece.

un twist old one and twist the new one

Slip out old one, slide in new tray!

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

I removed the old shelf and installed the new one!

The new shelf went in really easy. It just fit in the alloted slot.

1) Unplug Refrigerator. Remove all shelves and light shield in the freezer.
2)Remove panel covering refrigeration coils inside freezer in back. Two hex head screws w/nut driver.
3)Remove the defrost heater using phillips screw driver. Two screws.
4)Unplug two quick disconnect stakons and wires from heater.
5)Plug the wire coming down the right side into one side of the new heater and plug the shipped white wire into the other quick disconnect spade at the heater.
6)Install the new dual element defrost heater into the same place where the old was. Connections to the right.
7)Route the wire that was on the left across the top of the coils and down the right side.
8)Bring the existing wire from the left side down the right side and the white wire up the right side. Wires should not be tight at all and do not remove the tape at the stakon.
9)Now wires need to be cut (if necessary)and crimped together in the shipped stakon. This stakon looks like a wire nut.
10)Wires should be tucked gently into the styrofoam up and down the right side. Wirenut should be positioned so that water can not collect in it.
11)Replace the panel over the cooling coils.
12)Plug Refigerator back into the wall outlet. Put shelves and light shield back in.
13)My refrigerator is now working without a problem. It's been est two weeks.
Ice maker is also working correctly.

Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!

removed 3 screws with 1/4 " nut driver, unplugged 2 plugs by prying out on side tabs, removed bracket and motor. Used vice grips to hold motor shaft and used screwdriver to turn auger fork clockwise and remove. Unplugged two connectors from motor. removed 3 screws with 1/4" nut driver to remove motor. changed rubber boot from old motor to new. Reversed procedures to install new motor on bracket, auger fork, bracket in freezer, etc. Only difficulty getting both hands in narrow freezer compartment. Still didn't work, called repairman. When he got here I showed him the problem and lo and behold, now it would not dispense water. He diagnosed it as a bad motherboard, replaced it and all good now. Motherboard $150, diagnose and labor $90, but it is all good now and I even have a spare motor. The failing mother board causes strange howling noises at times and we discovered the compressor fan had also stopped working and in a short while I would have had a bad problem. Caught it just in time!!!

Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer

Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!