GSB9930VG128 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Old cap was already off and had string on it. Cut the string. Placed end cap over. Used needle nose pliers to open metal rail a little and put in new cap. Locked right in. That was easy. Thanks again.

No Plumer could help me. No one heard of a dishwasher check valve. My dishwasher was an ISA. I was lost until i found the relationship to Kitchenaid. Then sears. Vuela!
The valve was there, but unavailable.
A few more links, and the term "flapper" came up.
Well, my dishwasher check valve HAD a flapper inside. Although a plastic pos, i could unscrew the two halves and see the flapper.
A little piece of rubber, about 1" in diameter
All suppliers gave me but two choices. One large (size given) one smaller.
After years of searching, all I needed was a flapper valve. Not the whole check valve.
I found it hear for under $10

Shut of water to the built in dishwasher and shot of electric breaker , removed the water line and removed electric hookup at washer. Removed the drain pipe connected to the garbage disposal unit for more darin pipe room when pulling the appliance out from under the counter. Pull out the appliance, and carefully layed it flat on the back. Loosed the 2 connector clamps with a srewdriver from the upper and lower rubber connectors and the small drain rubber connector, used a plier. Loosed the screw on wire hold down pulled the housing pump out of the rubber connectors and used a wire hanger to help support the dangling housing pump unit. Unscrewed the damanged rubber connector using a washcloth for a better grip. , Rescrewed in the new rubber connector. ( Hint- used petrolem vasaline on the rubber connector base for a water tight fit) . Reconnected all , replaced elctric and water line, reconnected the darin pipe to the garabage disposal. Turned water back on. All worked at well.

Pulled the basket out the appliance and took what was left of the roller off and replaced them and slid the basket back onto the slide channel into the appliance. Then snapped the end caps on. Almost too simple. Less money than it costs to have the service man ring your door bell.

Dismantled spray arm by hand nd twisted in the new plastic ring.

This website was able to find a part very quickly and priced very reasonably. Local parts department had quoted double the price and double the time.

After disconnecting the supply and drain hoses I unscrewed the security screws and slid the unit out of it's space under the counter. I tipped the machine about 30-45 degrees to one side and examined the underside. I noticed a solenoid that appeared to control a valve leading to the drain tube. I cycled the washer through a wash cycle and noticed that the solenoid never activated. I removed the solenoid and found it filled with debris. I cleaned it out and reinstalled it, but it still did not function. I ordered the part from PartSelect.com because they had the clearest description of the part I needed. Delivery was quick and installation took only a few minutes. After hooking everything back up and sliding the machine back in place, it works like new.

First I replaced the flapper valve of of off the water pump. That worked for a couple of days, then the standing water was back. After more research at your site I ran across other person who had the same problem and they ended up replacing the piston and valve assembly. After pulling the dishwasher out I was able to find where these parts were located. The piston's rubber part was half gone. I replaced it and the gasket and another flapper valve. This model has two flapper valves. One difficulty was that you have to replace the screen inside the dishwasher before you replace the housing that the piston fits in. Your site and other folks contributing their stories helphed me to solve our problem. The dishwasher works like new now. Thanks. Ralph Naddeo.

I unscrewed the check valve, tipped the dishwasher on its face, and removed the asembly below it. Then replaced the valve flapper, cleaned out the assembly (broken champagne glass and udder nasties) then put it back the way I found it.
Then I put the new check valve on, and started the dishwasher up.

10 screws and $30 worth of parts saved me 400 bones for buying a new dishwasher.


If you have sanding water in your dishwasher check these two parts.....that check valve is the culpret.

unscrewed bracket unplugged solenoid , pried off spring clip pulled nylon arm off and took off old push on nut. I had to squeeze the push on nut together with pliers from two angles to get it loose

Took off the lower faceplates. Removed the old eyelet assemblies (one broken, one not) and replaced both with new ones. Very easy to repair.

Parts showed up much earlier than expected. Simple unscrew the old asy. screw in the new one. Was done before the the !st

Replaced with a new rinse aid fill cap.

The leak was coming from the drain valve shaft and I found the tips to replace the seal from this website. I was able to reach everything without removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. Once I got the cam lifter off the old push on nut was corroded so it was easy to get off. The old seal was recessed so I used the point of an ice pick to gently pry it out. The new seal was easy to push in place but the push on nut was a bear. I saw other comments about using a deep socket to push it on but I didn't have one the right size. I was able to hold the end of the shaft with pliers and pushed the nut in place using a screwdriver. Ran a short cycle and no more leak. Thank goodness for this website. Found the part easily and the other written comments were very helpful.

Removed the dishwasher from the cabinet. Turned it on it's top side. Removed the exit hose from the pump with a nut driver and replaced the flapper. Reconnected the hose to the pump.

On the GE Pot Scrubber 1120 model you do not even need tools to replace the parts that we replaced. We just pulled the corner baffles out and cleaned the corners before placing the new baffles in. For the door gasket, we just pulled the old gasket out and put the new one in the track that the old one came out of. We didn't have to take any door screws out to replace the gasket at all. It was very easy to do and no more leaks. You will have to push against the door to get it closed tightly the first time you use it since the new gasket has not been flattened by use. I ordered the gasket insert and used it since we had it but for this model we didn't really need it. I would suggest not ordering one for this model.