GS2727EEDB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Pulled broken plastic end stop from door. Basket fits right into the two side holes and pulls down to lock. Relatively easy fix and replacing basket stop.

Replaced the pins.

First I removed the three screws in the top hinge that hold the upper right corner of the door to the body of the unit. Then I just lifted the door off of the refrigerator. I proped the door up just long enough to pull out the old pin (plastic) and put the new one in place. Next I picked up the door and set it on the new hinge, and last I put the three screws back into place. It has taken me about as long to type this out as it did to actually make the repair. The part was also very reasonably priced so I purchased two since this items has been replaced previously.

looked a website removed part found broken item order and installed in 15 minutes, easy simple fix very low cost change

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Had to push the light switch to get lamp to light up.
Removed power from refrig. and removed old light switch
and replaced with the one I got from Partselect. Turned power back on and was done.

The best part of the repair was how easy it was to find and order the part. Instead of searching the parts houses around town I just went to the PartSelect web site, quickly found and ordered the part in about five minutes, received the part the next day at my home and was ready to make the repair. Wow! What a pleasure for something to work the way it was meant to. Removed old switch located by prying out with sharp knife or screwdriver. Don't worry about breaking it or cracking plastic. Disconnect(unplug) wires from back of switch. Replace (plug-in) wires on back of new switch. Insert in location of old switch. Finisheed.

Ordered the parts, snapped them into place on the basket and then slid the arms into the holes on the freezer door, very very simple..

just snapped the new one in. I am very happy. the part was delivered in just a few days--I was surprised how quickly it was delivered. thank you. I would use your company again.

installed new parts

Removed the top hinge of the door. Lift door off the lower hinge. Unscrewed the "natural closer" from the bottom of the door and replaced with new part. Pulled off the lower hinge from the lower bracket and replaced with new hinge pin. Replaced and realigned door. Piece of cake!

Place two 2x4s, stacked on each other on floor parallel and close to refrigerator, leaving room for socket handle and extensions to three lower hinge bolts. Placed 3 foot 2x4 at right angles on top of the parallel stack of 2x4s, with one end under right hand refrigerator door. Placed 20-30 lb bucket of rice on other end of 2x4 to exert upward pressure on door, raising door bottom off of hinge pin. Removed three hinge screws. Replaced Natural Door Closer and Lower Hinge pin. Screwed three hinge pin screws back in. Removed fulcrum.

I read what other people had done so I tried the easiest solution--Forced, without breaking, the plastic & fit the ring right where it needed to be.

Went to PartsSelect. Put in Dishwasher model number. Chose the screws for that model number. Ordered the screws. Can't get any easier than that!

Repair requires the removal of the bottom hinges on the doors. No problem for the refrigerator side, but the freezer side has wiring in the freezer door for the water/ice dispenser, so have some wood blocks handy to prop it up. Biggest challenge is that in the center of the kickplate there is a mounting screw (Torx head) that is behind the kickplate and runs vertically. I removed the old kickplate without removing this screw, just broke the kickplate off. The screw is very difficult to access with any tool. Removal wasn't too terrible because the old kickplate was gone; but insertion with the new kickplate in place was a challenge. I used a Torx socket, but because there isn't enough clearance for the ratchet, I held the socket into place by wedging a large flat blade screwdriver between the bottom of the socket and the floor. I was just able to get my index finger under the new kickplate to slowly turn the socket to fasten the screw. Unfortunately I didn't feel as though I could skip the screw - without it the kickplate sags in the center.

The most time-consuming part was removing the screws. First, remove the 8 screws that attaches the ice bin to the front cover. This will free up the auger enough to pull up the back end where the drive ring is held in place. The ring just pops right out. The only thing I recommend is as long as you have the bin out (and empty), go ahead and give it a good wash. Make sure it is thoroughly dry so that no ice freezes to the moving parts.