GS2624PEKW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Just put the sheves in and rearranged the food items.

Couldn't figure out how to get the old one out till I saw the new one.Pop the old one out slide the 2 wires on the new one pop it back in place,good to go.

Popped out the old light switch with a butter knife from the bottom first, disconnected the plug in. Install was just the reverse. Super easy fix

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

Removed the top hinge cover with Philips screwdriver. Removed the three bolts holding the top hinge in place. Removed the top hinge, and lifted the door off the remains of the lower hinge. Unbolted the remnants of the lower hinge closure mechanism and replaced it with the new set. Reassembled the door on the lower hinge, and then replaced and bolted back on the top hinge. Door back to full working order in less than fifteen minutes.

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

ordered the the glass using the schematic provided on line , was very easy & conveniant to have the parts delivered right to your doorstep. Highy recomemend this service & will use again in the future.

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

The fridge would occasionally run warm, requiring me to turn it off and defrost the evap coils in the freezer. I found an online video that demonstrated the entire process of replacing the control board. The fridge model in the video was different than mine, so it took some time to figure out how to remove the panel. Once that was done, the rest was easy. The only tool required was a flat-head screwdriver that was used to push in the tabs holding the panel in place. The circuit board took more effort to split in two than I had realized, and I had to be careful not to bend any of the components on its surface. The whole process took less than 30 minutes, and the fridge is working properly now..

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Followed the video exactly as shown from the website. I do suggest using a mirror or your phone to visualize the notch to press to drop the cover.

Followed the instructions in the video provided via email from Partselect
However, the part received was the opposite design of the part removed.
It appeared this could be left hand right hand choice of part. Moreover, the button on the switch that turns the light off/on when door is open/closed was not functional due to the part being the opposite of the part I was replacing. I tested the switch I was replacing and it appears this is not the problem. I think the light socket is the problem. I am 69 year old female and capable of doing small repairs, but limited knowledge of electrical so having to troubleshoot by trial and error. Thank you.

Refrigerator was not cold.

I had this problem before and it was the control vale in the back of the refrigerator. I ordered it and change that out in 5 minutes. That wasn’t the problem. I had the repairman come over and within 5 minutes he told me what the problem was. He showed me where the control board was. He then walked me through the removal process.

First remove the light cover on the Freezer & Refrigerator in front where the light button is located. Pull down on the front of the light cover. It pops out.

Second, in the front of the freezer & refrigerator temp control panel put your fingertips in front of the panel and pull down it’s hard to get the pins to release but the front pins will release, then pull down a little to allow the back hooks to release. (You can use a small common screwdriver if you can’t get it with your fingertips).

Next, once the panel is removed then disconnect the wiring harness. Then bring the panel to the counter, this is where you remove the circuit card and replace it. There are 4 hooks that hold the circuit board in place. Use a small common screwdriver to push the hooks away from the board. The new board comes as one piece. The board is perforated to allow you to snap the board. Directions come with the board and how to snap it. You will need to pay attention on how you removed the board. You will need to put the new board in the same way it came out.

Once the board is re-installed and lock into position reverse the process and install the control panel back into position.

Next is the programing of the board. Follow the directions that come with the control board and you will be back in business

This task took about 15 minutes to remove & replace and to program.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Removed the cover using a mirror to see how to release the clips on the rear side of the cover, removed the circuit board noting how everything was installed and also visually verified the part was the same. Broke the circuit at the designated score, installed and followed instructions for programming. All is well now.