GQB9930VG128 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Very simple repair: assemble the wheel/clip assembly. Attach to lower dish rack.

I was very happy with the fast delivery by PartSelect.

did it by hand, carefully flair out the plastic piece only enough to slide it into the metal rail.

took off the end clip, pulled the old wheel off and unclipped the bracket from the rack, then clipped the new assembly on...Simple!

I removed the broken lower spray arm tower using a scew driver and snapped in the replacement part not needing any tools.

and there was not supposed to be so I checked the drain and it was clean and I found a part in the back that looked like it was damaged from use and it was so I got a new part and changed it and that fixed the problem. I removed the screen from the bottom rear inside the cabinet that covers the nut and piston and I changed the part and that fixed the problem . Now no water stays in the bottom when the cycle is done.

Based on what I read from other people and partselect, it was fairly easy to ascertain what was wrong. I removed the solonoid valve by removing the two screws that held in place. Had to clean up the solonoid valve rod due to water leaking into it by running it on a wire brush. Pulled out the stop nut and old seal and replaced it with the new seal. Could not get the new stop nut on but it does not seem to move so let it go. Have to say that reading all the comments certainly helped me with the repair. Additionally, ordered parts by email at 10:30 in the morning and receiving them the very next day. Could not believe they were delivered so quickly.

Removed screws on the drain pump filter screens at the back of the dishwasher, unscrewed the check valve, screwed in the replacement unit, and re-affixed the filter screens.

I lived with the drain problem for 6 months and reviewed on line trouble shooting which all pointed me to a pump or solenoid valve problem. I pulled the unit and disassembled everything before noticing that the rubber washer/stopper at the top of the check valve had erroded away and was not preventing water from pumping back into the cabinet when the drain pump kicked on. Always check the condition of this check valve first if you dishwasher is not draining properly. It was so easy once I found the bad part.

It turned out to be an easier job than I thought it was going to be. Of course, I was still a bit surprised it worked right and didn't leak once I was done.

I started by taking off the servo that opens up the drain valve. I didn't think I could take out and replace the shaft seal from this position so I took the whole motor and drain assembly out by loosening the sump and pump clamps. This allowed me to wiggle out the whole mechanism. One plug and a ground wire had to be undone but that was it. The Push On Nut was the worst part - pain to take off - worse to get a new one on. I wasn't sure (still not) if I could get it in the right place. Once I got everything back together and the servo mount on it seemed to hold the nut in the right place.

I tested it and yelled "it doesn't leak!" my wife promptly said "Yet!".

We have run the dishwasher twice - so far - no leaks!

I couldn't have done it with out PartSelect's prompt service, diagrams, and part photos. I don't want to fix any more appliances but if I have to PartSelect is where I'll come for parts and diagrams.

Removed old basket, put new one in. New basket fits but it is larger then the old one so it takes up more room leaving less room for dishes. My dishwasher is apartment size.

Service from PartsSelect was very prompt.

I shut off water and pulled dish washer out removed all water. Turned waasher upside down.
Removed sump housing screws and unscrewed
pc fitting ,replaced new parts. Make sure things are tight before turning on water.

This seems to be a simple repair, but the push on nut is difficult to remove. Ended up damaging the case, so I am going to buy another dishwasher. If you plan to repair, make sure you pull the unit out to have plenty of room to work with.

As suggested. Pull washer, remove screws from top and replace with new part. Very simple and easy if you follow steps furnished by this site.

Pulled the lower left side end of the old door gasket out of door gasket retaining slot and slowly and evenly continued to work my way around the door pulling the door gasket out of the retaining slot until I reached the end. I installed the new gasket into retaining the retaining slot beginning on lower left side and then slowly and evenly working my way around the door inserting the new gasket into the retaining slot. I was careful to make sure the two cutout portions of the new gasket's retaining edge were correctly positioned in the lower corners of the door.

The hardest part is removing the plastic stop on the end of the two slides that support the roller rack. My unit was very old and I was afraid the plastic was brittle. Fortunately, the plastic could still be bent without breaking. You need to physically bend the plastic stops to remove. They came out easily, but you do need to apply some force.

Replacing the rollers was simple. Replacing the stops was easy once you understand how to pry them out. I would recommend trying to remove the stops with your hand only at first. You are less likely to damage the plastic.

There was a video on the page as the part. Done in a flash. The axle was a little hard to get into the wheel so I soaked it in a little hot water and it whet in like a charm.