GQB7420VC169 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Unscrewed old spray arm by hand. Screwed new one on by hand. Two minute job. New arm and tower were better than old one. Piece of cake at a very low price.

I received my dishwasher as a hand me down, my Aunt never liked the way it cleaned. After it sitting for about 2 years i installed it in my house and found that it leaked all the time from where motor shaft went into the pump housing. After disassembling everything and scouring parts sites online, I found the parts, ordered them. 3 days later i had the parts, and the next day I had a fully functioning leak free dishwasher.

Read about somebody else with the same problem and ordered the check valve. 4 screws off, twist out old valve, twist in new valve, 4 screws back in. Now dishes are see-yourself clean.

22 Year old dishwasher . . . Not worth repairing I thought so I pulled it out to dispose of it. Before I did, I went online to see if any parts were still available. . . To my surprise partselect. Com had it all! My problem was a plugged chamber located on rear wall of unit. A 20 minute repair once the new part arrived. Part arrived in 3 days but was broken inside of pkg. I called and the operator apologized profusely. . . She told me to keep the defective and explained my cc would temporarily be charged for replacement but as soon as they received a credit from supplier my credit will appear on my cc stmt. I had a replacement the following day. . . What a company!!!!

The hardest part was figuring out how to disassemble the door to replace the baffles and door gasket. No pictures or clues on the internet or my owners manual. I figured it out myself and the rest was a piece of cake. When the 7 screws were removed, the door liner lifted right out and new parts fit right in.

Pulled dishwasher out. Unscrewed 4 screws holding body valve, disconnected 2 hoses and replaced valve, put machine back together in reverse order.

Remove old left and right corner tub baffles, make certain area where the new baffles are to be inserted is clean and free of any debris. Gently press new baffles in to each corner. Remove old gasket insert and replace with new. Tell wife the job was a three hour ordeal that require advanced skills to complete!

I simply detatched the broken old roller and snapped in the new one. It was very simple and I did not need any tools.

I opened the D/W door, used needle nose pliers to remove the old baffles. They come right out. I cleaned the area using paper towels and installed the new baffles. They just sit in the corners with nothing holding them. Simple job.

I replaced the top filler tube. (The $65 price for the filler tube is outrageous. Glad I didn't have a service man fix it. With mark-up it would have cost me over $100 for a 3 foot plastic tube. Crazy!)

While I was add it, I replaced the corner tub baffles.

The small 4" gasket was missing from the machine, and the large gasket was bent and out of place. I ordered the small gasket and installed it into the groove, placing the end flaps behind the large gasket. The large gasket was questionable, but I did not replace it. It seemed OK after I snapped it back into the door groove. Once the gaskets were properly aligned, I carefully replaced the inside door panel and screws. No more leak!

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

Before ordering the parts I read the posts by other do it yourselfers and found them very helpful. I ordered the seal and shaft nut from Parts Select and was impressed the parts were delivered in a couple of days. I removed the two lower panels from the dishwasher to expose the leak and the shaft. I turned off the electricity at the circuit breaker box and disconnected the wiring harness to expose the area I would work on. After cleaning the water deposits from the shaft I pried off the small lock washer and removed the plastic cam from the selenoid. Next step required removal of the push on nut. This was the most difficult part of the entire procedure. It required a bit of gentle but firm pulling with pliers and a couple of screwdrivers, sacrificing the nut in the process. It was better ordering a new one originally then trying to save the old one. Having experiencing these nuts in previous work, I knew a new nut would be a cheap fix! Once off, the old seal is easy to remove. Place the new seal on the shaft as per the included instructions, place the new push on nut and reassemble as originally taken apart. (I used a socket set to push on the push on nut.) I then ran a load of dishes to make sure there was no leak before reinstalling the lower panels. I had no leak but pay close attention to placing the seal and push on nut. The seal must be in the exact place.

I popped off the front track stops--pretty easy with a little twisting and slid the basket out. A little leverage with a screw driver and the roller axle slipped off easily. Popped the new ones on, slid the basket back into the track and popped the stops in place and the job was done in under 15 minutes.

The repair went smoothly. There were actually instructions included with the parts, so that was nice. The only "gotcha" I found was that . . . after you take off the old food-chopper, you have unscrew the old impeller from the motor shaft. This was a bit difficult and you'll want some good pliers to do it. Don't worry about stripping where the food chopper screwed on-to, that part is attached to the impeller and there is a new one on the new impeller. When I re-installed everything onto the dishwasher, it rattled the first couple of times while the wear-ring was finding it's seat. Don't worry, that's normal. It went away by the third wash. I think I still have a small crack in the pump housing, though. The pump housing is two halves of molded plastic fused together along a seam, and I think the seam is starting to leak. It's about one drop every 45 seconds. I'm thinking JB Weld will fix it.