GLP85900 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

The new element wiring placements were totally different from the old element. Lucky for me the lettering printed on the terminals for each pole was the same as on the old one. It was just a matter of matching up each terminal pole lettering. The instructions that came with the new element were of no help at all. Youtube was my best helper.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

My dual zone burner would trip my breaker anytime i tried to turn it on. All the other burners would work fine. I searched online and found a way to test my burner, which was shorted or grounded out. I purchased a new burner from the site...It was as cheap or cheaper than other sites. It showed up a few days quicker than i was expecting..I also replaced the switch to the burner, just as a precaution and to save time since i already had the top glass off of my burners....EASY JOB!

There are already good instructions here on doing the repair, so I will just add what I found important. 1) using penetrating oil and an impact wrench on the screws that hold the inner glass to the inside of the oven door - they were rusted tight. 2) the outside glass front sits on the front of the door, on top of the edges of the side pieces, even though it looked to me like the side pieces were meant to go over the edges of the glass - they aren't. The bare side edges of the glass aren't covered with any trim at all. The video on removing the oven door that matched the kind of hinges I had showed taking them off the door as part of disassembly of the door. I didn't find that necessary at all, and you probably won't either. Less parts to have to get back in place. The hard part to me was finding the correct disassembly video to match the oddball hinges, which isn't to say it's a bad design - actually it seems better that the other more common designs. Take out the two screws above where the hinges enter the range, and lift the door up, away from the range, and off. Easy peasy.

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

Watched video and followed the very accurate and helpful instructions. A #2 Phillips screwdriver was the only tool required. This is an easy job for the average person.

Followed the instructions in the video provided by PartSelect, which was very accurate. They only problem I have encountered is that the wiring from the old element compared to the new element do not match up 100%. I had to call Whirlpool today and schedule a Tech to come out and see if they can resolve the problem. Right now, when the burner is turned on, both the inner and outer elements turn on.

This worked very well, thanks to the advice posted from other users. The only part that was a bit unclear was removing the door. There are small, slotted metal pieces screwed into the sides of the oven to hold the door hinges in the slots. After removing those, I had to hold the door and push it up and down, and a little bit side to side, to get the hinges to start sliding out, but they did. There are no other screws or brackets holding them in place. The hinges are on springs, so they do snap up when they come out of the slots in the sides of the oven. But they only snap to a 90 degree angle, so they won't cut your fingers off. You'd have to hold your fingers right on them to even get pinched. After that, I just kept taking screws out of the door until I got through to the back panel, replaced it, and put it all back together.

The nylon roller was very easy to install. Although rather pricey for what the part was, it was shipped immediately and got the job done. Took all of 5 minutes to do. I wish all my repair jobs were that easy.

Replaced damaged drawer roller: easy peasy!

removed door from range and slowly took apart until reached inner glass. there are three pcs of glass, front and two inner. was able to clean the inside which was dirty after 15 years of use. took alittle over an hour from start to finish including thorough cleaning.

I have KitchenAid convection oven that is about ten years old . The hinge on the left hand side broke so I had to replace it. It took me about 2 hours to get the job done because I cleaned the door as I went . The change out while fairly strait forward did take some time . A lot longer the some of the people said .

Video's did not show my door construction so I had some difficulty and surprises. One must disassemble and keep all parts in order of disaasembly with all screws for each part.separated. Be methodical and patient and it will all work out.

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.