GLP85900 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Step 1. Always ensure appliance is unpluged from power source. 2 Remove oven door by open slighly and lift up be sure your hands are up from hinges they can snap back and injure fingers. 3. Have a cover on a flat surface and have a diagram of oven door, 4. Remove bottom screws and slide out top glass and side rails. 5 Remove top cover and insulation over glass. Beware of any jagged glass. 6. Incert new glass. 7. Be sure when replacing insulation and cover that cover in under tabs to ensure glass is firmly held in place repeat steps in reverse order. Took just 20 minutes to repair. I used a small electric screw driver.

Ceramic cooktop: Turn off power to the unit. remove long "locking" screws from underside of the unit; remove clips (may take a little effort if they are "frozen" in place) From underneath unit lift it up and out of the counter - do not try to lift from ceramic top- remove 4 control knobsun - remove 12 screws (3 per side) attaching ceramic top to the unit - carefully work ceramic top off the bottom frame; its a friction fit - do not force it. Place ceramic top in a safe, flat space. Note the orientation of the burner - you will need to replace the new one in the exact same orientation - also note the connections on the existing unit and match them to where they will go on the new unit. (note: my old unit had a black wire that was replaced by a solid metal strip) work the wire clips off the existing unit, flip it ove and note the number on the "clock face" where the spring clips attach. You may need to drill a small pilot hole from the top side. remove the spring clips from the old unit and place them on the new unit. These clips align the unit in the proper location and provide proper contact with the bottom of the ceramic top. Replace the top gentley working it onto the base and replace the 12 screws. Place the unit back in the countertop being careful to lift up to reposition so you don't disturb the foam tape along the edge of the opening. Replace the clips in the side of the unit, replace the mounting screws, replace the control knobs, turn power back on. You should be done. Takes about 30 minutes.

I can't believe how easy this was to fix. 1. Unplug the stove. 2. remove the screws that hold the stove top in place. 3. pull the top up, unplug the electrical wires and unscrew the ground wire 4. remove the stove top and flip it over. 4. unscrew braces holding the burners in place. 5. with pliers, remove the wire connections between stove top and old burners 6. replace with new burners. 7. reattach everything. And you're done! Go brag to the neighbors about what you just did.

pulled door up and out. Disassembled door. removed old glass and rope gasket. installed new glass and gasket.

Removed the right side panel, lifted up insulation, removed element and replaced with new.

Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.

The range top came off with two screws under the front portion of the glass top (by the oven door). I unplugged the connection plugs at the rear off the range top, unscrewed the rear screws holding the heating unit in place and plugged in new element and reassembled range unit. You need to removed the two phillip head screws at the rear of the range top in order to remove the bar holding the heating element. Once you do this it is very easy to finish the job.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

I very simply replaced the gasket where it belonged and I was good to go!

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

I followed the instructions submitted by other users which were helpful. Two notes that might help someone. 1. To loosen the screws holding the inner door glass, use channel lock type pliers to slightly twist the square bracket the screw is holding. The screw comes out easily then. 2. Note that the flange on the side rails go UNDER the glass door front. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get screw holes lined up with the flanges on top - DUH!

Per the instructions listed in your customer replies

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.

Removed the door. Took out all the screws. Removed the glass that was cracked. Put in the new piece. Put the screws back in place. Put the door back on and it was a done deal.

I was able to remove the door by opening it partially and lifting it up while jiggling it. Once off, I laid it with the inside up on a table and the screws along the bottom facing outward so I could access them easily. I removed the various screws and porcelain covers and sides feel of easily. The inside panel lifted off exposing the inner glass and frame. The screws and clips had to be sprayed with penetrating oil to remove them. The frame lifted off and the cracked glass was removed. I was careful to wipe away all the fluid used to loosen the frame clips. Assembly was the reverse of this being careful to let pieces fit nicely without force. It would have cost me $39 to have the repair performed assuming I could get the door off. A Phillip's head screwdriver was not adequate to remove the frame clips. You needed a correctly-fitting square drive.