GIWN3000M0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Slid off the old START knob, then pushed on the new START knob.

I created and printed a label on my computer for use with the time selector dial, which must be set at or beyond 10 minutes, before turning the START knob.

I made a label that says "Minimum" with a red arrow that points past the 10 minute setting on the time selector dial.

My teenage daughter was not setting the time selector dial, to a point past 10 minutes. When she turned the START knob, the dryer would not come on, because the time selector dial was not set past the 10 minute setting.

My daughter had continually twisted the START knob until it broke. I am hoping she will be able to see the large printed label I put on the dryer near the time selector, saying "Minimum" with a large red arrow pointing past 10 minutes.

I am very pleased that I was quickly able to find the exact matching START knob for my dryer and the exact same color, from PartSelect.Com

Removed the damaged knob and replaced it with the new knob. Very ease

To diagnose, first I unhooked the washer: power, water supply, and drain pipe. I then slid the washer out, laying it on its front. With nutdriver, I unscrewed two screws that held the other end of the drain tube and removed it completely. Then, again with the nutdriver removed 4 screws from the back near the legs, two in between the legs in the middle, and approx. 4 to 6 on the bottom. This let me pull the bottom off partially to access the motor area. (I did did not take the bottom completely off, only about 2/3 off and let it bend over, as it was flexible tin) The belt was broken. After receiving the new belt, I positioned it between the pulley and the motor and between the drum and the big pulley. Then I rotated the big pulley, pulling the belt onto it as I rotated. At the same time, as I rotated, I pulled the other end of the belt on to the little pulley. Once it was on, I would put pressure on it as I turned the pulley, to jump the belt to the appropriate grooves on the little pulley. Note: the replacement belt had been modified, so it had one less groove than the pulley. I would have known this if I had read the insert that came with the belt first! Anyway, this was not a problem, only a design change. Also it was important to start the belt on the inside, so if it slipped, you didnt loose your bite. Total diagnostic, repair, and reassembly time: 30 minutes plus or minus. I had read other online forums that said you had to loosen the motor, etc. And I do know some type of a belt installation tool was offered on line, but I got along fine with my installation method. An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but not necessary.

Simply put hands, one under each side of the agitaror and pulled up. The part snapped off very easily. I then placed the new part in the tub and pressed down. Extremely easy, should have done it sooner!

I replaced the work tub dampening strap because that what everyone recommended to replace for this problem. However the purpose of these straps is to dampen the agitation cycle and they have nothing to with the spin cycle at all. the balance ring assembly had been rubbing on the outer tub so I decided to replace it because of a "balance issue". However the ring is liquid with baffles to counter balance the load as it spins and it still had the liquid inside of it so it was actual not needed. What fixed my issue was I found a bolt laying at the bottom of the washer. This bolt was one of the 4 bolts that hold the outer tub to the metal support. When it feel out the tub was only held in at 3 points not the needed 4. This allowed it to rock a bit in the high speed spin and you thought it was going to fly into a 1000 pieces. I replaced the bolt and other parts since I had paid for them and everything works great now.

ordered part on line--received in mail 2 days later--
just pushed on in 2 seconds--job done

how much easier can it get??????

I figured out that fuse link was open.Upon receipt of fuse link I ordered and replaced the bad fuse link hidden on wrapped electrical harness leading to the motor inverter board connector, BINGO... My washer works and I enjoy my washing machine again.My thanks and appreciation to partselect.com for the help & info you rendered to me.

Replaced inline fuse, simple fix.. but didn't work, checked lid panel switch which was working fine. Still no motor action, followed the reset procedure, and then watched above the motor for error lights, just below the drip cover, nothing, no error blinking code. Not sure why the kit contained two fuses, there is only one in our washer. So, my testing is over, in the error code, it stated if no blinking light, the failure is most likely a motor, I was hoping for something else, from switches to fuses. I reviewed the wiring diagram looking for an addition fuse link, found nothing.. The washer is four years old looks great, but now worthless, the replace motor for the unit is something like #300.00 with shipping. You can't test the motor, so it is a shot in the dark if you replace it. Really disappointed with GE's engineering and poor quality of manufacturing, and the lack of info to test the unit. We live on an Island, so not easy to find a local repair person. Your parts replacement service was fast and easy to use. But so much for GE washer.

Used 1" puddy knife to depress spring loaded retainer tabs. Front panel is removed by prying the top of the front panel away from the machine. Lift front panel to release bottom from machine. Set panel aside. New belt is installed by placing it on the drive pulley and then rolling belt onto the motor pulley. Rotate the motor by hand while moving belt so it is properly seated on pulley.

Removed front cover, lifted lid. Unnapped the broken tub cover pulling the tub forward to allow the old cover to clear the rear of the housing/top. Installed the new tub cover by once again doing the same thing and carefully snapping it into place. Reconnected the rubber sping offloads, lowered the top and reinstalled the front cover..ready to run.

I used a butter knife to pop plastic clips that hold the front panel to the top panel, one clip on each side of front cover. I never thought the new belt was going to fit, it barely fit on the big pulley, much less around the small pulley too. It needs to be stretched a lot to get it on.. but it will fit :)

First i the four screws on the switch area remover the front panel. Remover the lid swith and replace it. It was good to go again. It is as easy as one two three.

took two people to get this belt on

After confirming what I thought was the problem and reading other posts it was fairly easy to replace the belt. After taking the bottom cover loose to gain access to the large and small pulley I found out that the belt was very tight to get on as a previous customer had mentioned. I also used visegrips to hold the belt in place on the large pulley while guideing the belt on the small motor pulley with one hand and turning the drum pulley with the other hand. It helped that I had read the other post first. Next time will be a snap.

My husband was unavailable and already overloaded, so I took a screw driver and removed the front cover of the washer. After I discovered where the leak was coming from, I used a screw driver to remove one end of the hose and pliers to remove the other end. I went online, found the part and ordered it. It came in surprisingly fast. My husband put it back in about 5 minutes.