GI6FARXXY07 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

just like the video showed, removed the cover parts inside the fridge, disconnected the water tube inside and pulled out from the top of fridge, then inserted new water tube.

lift glass, slide new rail in replace glass. 2 min repair.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

It was just a simple swap out with the new bins.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

pop open, unscrew quarter turn, screw new one in quarter turn, pop shut. duh

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

I pulled the ils gasket out of track and replaced with the new one. Instructions ncluded state to be very careful with new gasket as the magnets may break. Total time 2 minutes with no tools required.

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.

The old gasket kept coming off. I pryed off the old plastic insert with a kitchen knife and snapped the new one in. Without the gasket the ice wasn’t being made

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

I called the installer of my filter unit and he told me that often, thhe fridge filter is the problem. Like magic it worked

These guys had my part mailed in lighting fast! It arrived in 2 days in a padded box in perfect shape.The price was the best on line and they saved my life one day before thansgiving!! They got my vote and respect! Great job partselect!!! walt , crete illinois