GHWP1000M2WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Unplug washer to keep from running.Pull out on selector. After determining how knob was held in place, used coat hanger with short 90 on one end to catch clip holding knob in place. Pulled clip, removed knob.Placed clip on back of new knob just enough to hold. Placed knob on shaft, pressed down on clip to lock in place. All Done. Use of small flashlight is helpful. Replug washer.

Reach down and grab the base of the agitator with both hands and yank up with slightly more pressure on the left or right, whichever side you prefer. This will break loose the holding clamps/pull straight up. To re-install: align slots and push down until it snaps. Simple as that.

The dial is held on the cycle control shaft w/a clip. Using a small pair of long nose pliers, pull the clip out of the slot in the control knob. Remove the outer knob exposing the indicator.Easy....

This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc

I bought all three parts but I noticed that the dial was very loose. I reapaired this first and it was working

replace lid switch

replaced broken straps all 4. washer not working ]. replaced lid switch with wire harness.replaced bad old belt.working fine now. my wife is very happy. thanks for your videos and how to do the job right.

I followed the Youtube instructions on replacing the valve. So easy.
Getting the wire clamp pushed back from the hose was the only part that wasn't easy but I got it done by being gentle and persistent moving and twisting the wire a little at a time.
Im a 67 yr old woman and was determined not to call in a appliance repair person after I saw how simple the installation could be. Parts Direct is awesome. Will use again in the future for repairs. I feel like I have super powers after doing this myself.

I had to replace the water fill nozzle on my GE washer, and having the instruction video on the parts page is a real time-saver. It shows how to remove each part on your washer in order to access the area where the part needs to be replaced. Start to finish, about 20 minutes. Easy peasy.

Open up the back of the top front panel by removing two screws. Unhook the wires from the old valve, then slip the small clamp down far enough to pull the old valve stem out of the little tubing. Removed the old valve, then replaced with the new valve.

Repair went well but there was clips to the door switch not in the video. Still was easy to work around and complete.

Removed the front of the washer using a putty knife. Removed the old belt and used a shop-vac to c,San up the insides. Placed the belt on the pulley and used three med sized zip ties about one inch apart. I cut off the exposed tail of the zip ties. Got the belt started around and put the belt onto the small pulley. Keeping an eye on the small pulley to make sure the belt did not slip off, I had to push it up a time or two. Then as I pulled the big pulley around, one zip tie broke, replaced it and continued pulling the big pulley, it got tough but with one knee pushing on the drum and pulling with one had it went on. I did slowly turn it to align the belt on the big and small pulleys. Not hard, I recommend a bright flashlight and gloves. I saved a good buck doing it myself :-)

The front panel has to be taken off to access the washing machine pump. To do this I used a putty knife I inserted the putty knife in the slot at the top of the front panel where it meets the top of the machine to release the clip that holds the panel in place. Once the panel is off the pump is mounted to the bottom of the machine with two screws. There are also two hoses attached to the pump that need to be taken off. Before you do this you have to get as much water out of the machine as you can to minimize the amount of water that will come out when you disconnect the hoses. My recommendation is to replace the spring type hose clamps the manufacturer uses with a screw type hose clamp. These are much easier to put back on once the hoses are in place. You are not fighting the spring clamp while trying to put the hose on in a confined space. Then put the front panel back on. This may take about a half hour if you do not have too much clean up because you didn’t get enough water out of the machine.

Unplugged...Removed back from washer...Using nut driver-cordless drill...Inspected hose-found leak....Removed hose with pliers & screw driver.....Than dried the hose...& than for temporary fix (for the wife to continue washing) used some Epoxy for rubber.....Than ordered new part. Received and reinstalled replacement. Thank you

Removed the front cover with a screwdriver, by locating and slightly prying the metal clpis back to release the cover. Then I removed one screw (only one visible) from the strap that hold the top cover/lid down. With a little prying, I lifted the lid up out of the way, and suspended it with a cord. I removed the old dampener straps and replaced each one at a time with the new strap. It was not to hard to get to the screws (I have large arms), and it only took me nearly a half hour to complete the task. It would have been easier if I used two different size nutdrivers, but it was easy enough with an adjustable wrench. Then simply put everything back to together in reverse order of how I took it apart. The wife was impress that I fixed another thing around the house.