GH4155XPS2 Whirlpool Microwave - Instructions

The hard part was trying to find the light bulb locally. The locally sold light bulbs were either too long, not dual element or not powerful enough. So I ordered the light bulb straight from PartSelect. When it came time to install the new light bulb I carefully removed the screw holding the plate in position so as not to loose it in my gas stove. I needed the mirror to line up the light bulb and screw it in. Once it was in I verified operation and closed up the plate being careful not to drop the screw into my gas stove. Problem solved.

I found the part number for the mount on the appliances company website. Once I had that I visited a few sites looking for part. This site was easy to use and priced right, so I ordered. A few days later the product arrived as promised and worked perfectly for the install.

KitchenAid Microwave [Model: KHMS 145 JBS-0]Door Handle Repair
Tools and Parts
• Door Handle [Part # PS390101]
• Putty Knife
• Phillips Screwdriver
• Tray (cup) for parts during disassembly/reassembly (3 screws on door; 2 screws on handle; spacer on top-door edge).
Instructions
• Preparation
o Disassembly can be managed with the door mounted on the unit. The handle is attached by 2-screws that can be accessed only by separating the outer/inner door panels.
o Before starting the project, watch the Youtube.com video for a GE Microwave, which is the most applicable video for removing the collar [i.e., plastic bezel around the viewing window on the inner door) and for separating the outer/inner door panels ].

• Remove the collar
Photo 1: Inner-side clip (bottom of collar) used on
3-sides of the collar (top edge is a spacer) Photo 2: Hinge side clip (right edge)

o As indicated in the video, small clips are on the inner-side of the collar on 3-sides (top, bottom, and open-door edge).
o The clips are on the outside of the collar for the door-hinge side.
o These clips are small and somewhat fragile – once a few are popped, finger pressure will generally pop the remaining clips.


• Separate the outer/inner door panels

Photo shows the inner/outer doors separated, and the 3-screws removed.
o Remove the 3-screws on the door edge before separating the outer door panel.
o There is a plastic spacer on the top, outside edge of the door that is not cemented. Remove the spacer after separating the door panels.
o Use a putty knife to pop the clips for the outer-door panel around the top, bottom, and open-door sides.
o The top door corner (the spacer edge) is tight and should be gently pushed back.
o The outer door panel will remain attached on the hinged edge and function like a second door – move gently.
o The viewing glass is clamped in place; but, handle with caution.

• Remove the Door Handle
o With the outer/inner panels separated, remove the two screws holding the handle and remove the handle.
o Retain the screws for later use.

• Install the new Door Handle
o Reuse the original screws (Note, [Part # W10841091 – screw] is a different thread, and is not self-tapping)
o The door-handle screw holes are not tapped; so insert the old screws in the handle to tap before installing the handle, leaving approximately 1/8 - 3/16” exposed.
o Remove the screws and reuse to install the handle.


Comparison of 2-original screws vs. replacement screw (note thread gauge differences).
• Reinstall the Outer Door Panel
o Align the spacer with the inner-panel edge in the upper corner.
o Close the outer panel, gently snapping the clips into place.
o Reinstall the 3-screws on the door edge.

• Reinstall the Collar
o Snap the hinge side in place.
o Gently snap the remaining sides in place

Instead of telling you, i have question do you have any instructions on how to do the repair. It would have helped save time on the repair.

This job took longer then it should have, becasue I did not start right in the begining. I did figure it out quickly after the wrong start.

You were a big help in picking the right part to correct the problem. You should be able to help with the repair. Thank You

I ordered the part according to the Model number, inserted the part very easily, (and I am soooo challenged in that area) and now it turns again. :)

Replaced bulb by: 1 pulling plug on microwave to make sure not hot - no power; 2 used needle nose pliers with head part about same size that fit inside of socket; 3 opened pliers and held firm against broken metal part; keeping pressure of pliers against broken metal part of light bulb, slowly unscrewed the broken part from socket using firmly held opened pliers. The rest was a cinch...just screwed in new light bulb, plugged in microwave and viola - there was light once again.

This is not easy to do. I done it before to replace a broken window and it was a real bitch. I considered buying a new door rather then do it again.All I wanted to do was tighten two screws that hold the handle.
I used the advice found on your web site from a person who did it using quarters and putty knifes to remove the choke and the door insert. Sounded silly but it works like a charm. I advise anyone who needs to do this repair to use that info on your web site. It will save lots of frustration. Be sure to have plenty of quarters and a few pennies.

I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the microwave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!

the burn thru was probably because stirrer motor was not turning, Unplug the microwave .freed the motor up bu manually turning. temporary fix. The cover is held up with small push pin clips. Just pry the cover off with a screw driver or other flat tool. Scrape offf the old silicone. There are two covers in the Kit. you just need 1. Remove the old clips for the roof of the microwave, put a bead of silicone on the new cover where the old was and secure the new cover with the push pins into the clips .

Removed the microwave from above the oven by loosening the two screws above the microwave. As the unit tilted outward lifted up and the whole unit came out all the time feeding the power cord through the cutout for the power cord. After it was out removed the cover and identified the capacitor and made sure it was discharged and removed and replaced the diode. tested before reinstalling and it heated up just fine. Reversed order and reinstalled . Very easy job maybe a second hand to help fish the power cord when installing and removing.

It was a bit awkward because the microwave is mounted over my stove. I had to twist around and install the bulb and then replace the cover. It was a bit uncomfortable. It took me about 10 minutes to complete.

Put s pot under were you take the screw out.If you drop it you can get it easy

Remove the two screws to the plastic vent strip at the top of the unit. That exposes a metal cover (upper right) held in place by two more screws. (Found that removing the screw holding the key panel in place and moving that out of the way made for more work room) Remove the metal cover. The HV diode (visible) on one end is secured to the chassis by a screw. The other end is fitted to the HV capacitor. So unscrew one end and pull the HV diode off the capacitor. The replacement fits on like the old one came off. Very simple repair. But it would be safe to short the capacitor terminals to the chassis first. Noticed that it appeared the sparking was caused by the HV diode's outer casing being worn by the asbestos covered wire next to it and laying against it. I made sure the two were not touching, before putting the covers back on. Also, the problem started with an occasional spark when the MW started. It quickly deteriorated to a full, non-stop electrical sparking. You can hear it, smell it, and see it through the top vent. You don't need to remove unit to work on it.

Take off top facing over microwave using screwdriver also protection plate for diode and capaitor. Disconnect diode from frame, bracket to capacitor then remove, disconnect wires leaving diode on capacitor for right connection, replace, rewire done.

Looked up symptoms on parts select website. Ordered mag and diode. Very easy to take micro off the wall. Easily removed screws holding the skin on. Found diode. Really didn't need to replace it but since I had a new one (fairly cheap), just did so. Diode only installs one way. Can't botch it HOWEVER, MAKE SURE THE ONLY PART OF THE DIODE TO TOUCH THE GROUNDING POLE IS THE SCREW DOWN LEAD. IF THE OPPOSITE END LEAD, THAT WHICH IS THE PUSH ON TERMINAL, TOUCHES THE GROUNDING POLE, YOU'LL GET ARCHY SPARKY. The magnetron goes in very easy. Simply pay attention to how you removed it and reverse that process installing the new one. There are easy to use YouTube videos that show magnetron replacement. You can do this easily and save your microwave and $$ while doing so.