GFS187 Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Unplug Refrigerator 2. Remove inside back freezer panel. (4 Screws) 3. Remove Duct Cover (3 Screws). 4. Cut electrical connections to fan. 5. Remove Old Fan motor (2 hex screws. 6. Install ground wire (was not one there previously). 7. Put slide-on electrical connectors on remaining 2 motor wires. (Were not any on original unit.) 8. Replace Fan Motor (Don't forget the rubber vibration pads) 9. Reconnect electrical wires. 10. Press on plastic fan blade. 11. Plug in refrigerator to test install. It works. 12 Unplug refrigerator and replace ducting and back panel to freezer. Plug it back in. Voila, Quiet again.

After finding an almost obsolete part( thanks PartSelect!) the installation was rather easy. Remove the back panel of the freezer and vent with a screwdriver and a nut driver. Disconnect the three wires, green, white and red.Remove motor from mounting and replace with new motor. I had to make a slight adjustment to the ground wire on the new motor that required adjusting the position of the contact-no big deal. The motor fit perfectly. Popped fan on and assembled. 20 minutes max.

Pulled the electric plug! Removed the freezer shelf and the rear shelf supports by pulling straight up. Swung rear panel out of the way after taking out the two phillips head screws at the top. Removed the plastic deflector grill to which the motor is attached with a nut driver. Removed motor from grill and disconnected wire prongs (pull off). Attach new motor. Only issue - the ground prong has been moved to the front of the motor so the wire just reaches and has to be gently bent back so the fan blade clears it. Reattach deflector grill. Push on fan blade, but not too far to hit wire. Reassemble the rest in reverse order.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

First I watched the video on your website, it was quite helpful. It showed me the location of the part to be replaced. Then I used the nut driver to remove a couple of screws, and slowly pulled the cover off . Once I pulled the cover down I could see the part that needed replacing, it had a couple of phillips head screws holding it in place, I removed those screws and unplugged the defrost timer, taking note of the color of the wires. Then I took the new defrost timer and attached the loose wire to the correct terminal according to the directions(this is where the color of your wires comes in), then I plugged in the new defrost timer and replaced the screws. I then reattached the cover making sure not to pinch any of the wires, and replaced the screws. It was so easy I was sure I did something wrong and it wouldn't work, but I plugged the refrigerator back in and let it sit for about 20 minutes and then when I checked it was running cool. I'm 55 years old and never had the nerve to try anything like this before but since my husband passed away I've had to try things myself or replace a lot of appliances. If I can do it anyone can.

We wasted time looking for the electrical schematic on our refrigerator (the first step in the instructions). By skipping that and reading further in the instructions, the type of cooling that the refrigerator has can easily be determined by the colors of the wires that go to the defrost timer. You need to know this to set up the timer properly for your specific refrigerator. Had I just started there, the entire repair would have taken less than 10 minutes. Very simple repair and it works like a charm, no more water coming into the refrigerator and the ice cream is rock hard. Glad we didn't have to spend lots on a new appliance. Thanks Part Select.com! BH

I just followed the enclosed instructions

unpluged refrigerator. removed panel in front of fan. Removed the fan motor. Installed the new fan kit. Replaced the panel in front of fan. Pluged the refrigerator back in. The refrigerator runs a 100 percent better

R/R part, 3 screws reconnect 3 wires. easy.

I was a Sears repair man for fourty eight years , so I don"t think I should say how easy this was.

Unplugged electrical cord to dryer. removed the front cover 2 screws on the bottom. Lifted front cover off. Unplugged the 2 wires going to the old flame sensor. Used nut driver to remove 1 screw holding the flame sensor in. Removed old sensor replaced with new one. Reattached the 2 wires back on to the new flame sensor. Tested. Flame stayed on longer! Dryer works great dryer is 20 years old and still running like new now. Part was the exact match I needed.

After getting on-line to your site we looked up what the problem could be after receiving the dryer from a friend to transfer from electric to gas to save money. First we thought it to be the ignitor and after receiving it so quickly it still didn't work so went to your site again and found the Flame sensor. They were both defective and now it works wonderful!!! Your site also explains what and how to repair the appliance, which my husband appreciated! We are glad you contacted us because your site did not show that we could send you and e-mail Thanking your company for the excellant service we received. Your prices can't compare to other companies either, we were amazed on the differences. When you say the next day delivery, you mean the next day!!! Thankyou and you are now in my Favorites if ever needing parts for other appliances we own.

Remove lower bottom cover (two screws on bottom) with screw driver. Remove old radiant flame sensor from left side of tube with ignior by using socket wretch. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Put new part in: put wires back on, insert part's lower tab into the tube ( there is a small slot) use socket wrench to tighten screw at top. Put bottom front panel back on and screw back in.

Opened the bottom panel w/ 1/4 nut driver to access the flame sensor and easy fix.

Ordered thermal fuse and cycling thermostat