GFS185 Refrigerator - Instructions

One day the ice cream in the freezer seemed mushy, but the ice was still frozen. There was not water in the ice bin. However, the problem resolved itself. This suggested that the defrost timer had become stuck for an extended time, but then continued to run. The fact that the freezer went back to frozen, implies that all the components of the cooling loop (compressor, condenser & fan, evaporator & fan) were fine. It was possible that the problem was caused by a bad defrost (?evaporator?) thermostat but everything I saw on line suggested that the defrost timer is the culprit about 40 - 50% of the time. Anyway, I followed the instructions in the on-line video at this site for replacing the defrost timer and it was easy. It would have only taken 15 minutes, but I spent a while reading the defrost timer instructions and hunting down a schematic for my refrigerator, to determine which pin the loose wire should go on.

Emptied the freezer. Removed the back panel. (six screws)Removed the fan cover.(4 screws) Unplugged the power. Unplugged three wires from the motor. (hot-neutral-ground)Removed the fan. (2 screws) Installed the new fan and centered for clearance. Reversed the prior instructions.

I did the repair just as your video showed me. It worked out great.

Followed troubleshooting steps. Checked thermal fuse (shorted)- OK. Checked igniter (about 70 ohms) - OK. checked flame sensor - (open) BAD (should read shorted). This part is normally shorted then opens when the igniter gets hot causing it to open and thus turns on the gas flow. An open flame sensor does not permit the igniter to turn on.

I read some of the repairs of other people and this best described my situation. I ordered the Radiant Flame Sensor and followed the step by step instructions in the video for the repair, which by the way was excellent. It couldn't have been easier. My most difficult part of the repair was moving my dryer out of the laundry closet.

Unplugged electrical cord to dryer. removed the front cover 2 screws on the bottom. Lifted front cover off. Unplugged the 2 wires going to the old flame sensor. Used nut driver to remove 1 screw holding the flame sensor in. Removed old sensor replaced with new one. Reattached the 2 wires back on to the new flame sensor. Tested. Flame stayed on longer! Dryer works great dryer is 20 years old and still running like new now. Part was the exact match I needed.

I just followed the enclosed instructions

unpluged refrigerator. removed panel in front of fan. Removed the fan motor. Installed the new fan kit. Replaced the panel in front of fan. Pluged the refrigerator back in. The refrigerator runs a 100 percent better

R/R part, 3 screws reconnect 3 wires. easy.

First I watched the video on your website, it was quite helpful. It showed me the location of the part to be replaced. Then I used the nut driver to remove a couple of screws, and slowly pulled the cover off . Once I pulled the cover down I could see the part that needed replacing, it had a couple of phillips head screws holding it in place, I removed those screws and unplugged the defrost timer, taking note of the color of the wires. Then I took the new defrost timer and attached the loose wire to the correct terminal according to the directions(this is where the color of your wires comes in), then I plugged in the new defrost timer and replaced the screws. I then reattached the cover making sure not to pinch any of the wires, and replaced the screws. It was so easy I was sure I did something wrong and it wouldn't work, but I plugged the refrigerator back in and let it sit for about 20 minutes and then when I checked it was running cool. I'm 55 years old and never had the nerve to try anything like this before but since my husband passed away I've had to try things myself or replace a lot of appliances. If I can do it anyone can.

We wasted time looking for the electrical schematic on our refrigerator (the first step in the instructions). By skipping that and reading further in the instructions, the type of cooling that the refrigerator has can easily be determined by the colors of the wires that go to the defrost timer. You need to know this to set up the timer properly for your specific refrigerator. Had I just started there, the entire repair would have taken less than 10 minutes. Very simple repair and it works like a charm, no more water coming into the refrigerator and the ice cream is rock hard. Glad we didn't have to spend lots on a new appliance. Thanks Part Select.com! BH

Pulled the electric plug! Removed the freezer shelf and the rear shelf supports by pulling straight up. Swung rear panel out of the way after taking out the two phillips head screws at the top. Removed the plastic deflector grill to which the motor is attached with a nut driver. Removed motor from grill and disconnected wire prongs (pull off). Attach new motor. Only issue - the ground prong has been moved to the front of the motor so the wire just reaches and has to be gently bent back so the fan blade clears it. Reattach deflector grill. Push on fan blade, but not too far to hit wire. Reassemble the rest in reverse order.

I was a Sears repair man for fourty eight years , so I don"t think I should say how easy this was.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Remove lower bottom cover (two screws on bottom) with screw driver. Remove old radiant flame sensor from left side of tube with ignior by using socket wretch. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Put new part in: put wires back on, insert part's lower tab into the tube ( there is a small slot) use socket wrench to tighten screw at top. Put bottom front panel back on and screw back in.