GFDN110GD2WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Removing the top and then the front of the dryer went fairly easily after finding the screws. The drum came out with just a little coaxing, does not gets screwed in place. To me the trickiest maneuver was getting my hand under the drum to place the belt over motor pulley and around the tensioner pulley. You must look up an image of the belt routing. It took me forever to figure that out. If not for that, this in a half hr fix. Ps don't forget to unplug the dryer.

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

I'm a 90 pound mother of 4you and was able to fix this problem all by myself. Very easy!

My son ordered the part, but gave up installing it. We called in a professional appliance repairman because the dryer had to be partially dismantled to remove the drum and a belt so three sets of holes could be aligned to secure the replacement diffuser. My daughter had to lend a hand to hold one piece in place while the repairman threaded the screws because the drum was too deep for him to be able to reach both front and back pieces. Definitely not a one-person job for this particular model.

Dryer would turn on when you pushed the "on" button, but as soon as you let go, it would turn off. Found the plastic door switch cracked (from slamming door closed). Unplugged the dryer. Unscrewed the two screws inside the top of the door to unfasten the top panel. Took the top panel off. Then unscrewed the two screws on the side to unlatch the front panel. Used plyers to take the 3 wires off the switch and slid the switch through the front of the door. Juat remember where the wires go. Then inserted new switch and connected the wires. Vacuumed out the dryer and reassembled. It took about 20 minutes and was easy! If I can do it, you can!!!

Watched the video associated with the repair and followed the instructions, it was easier that I thought it was going to be.

Followed the detailed instructions provided when I bought the parts at the online website. Very good directions diagrams/pictures and explanation of repair effort required

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

I yanked on the piece of twisted felt and pulled it from between the drum and the frame. Model number and serial number were gotten from the placard inside the door frame. A schematic was found on line and the part ordered from that picture. The whole thing is held together by four Phillips head screws. Two are upside down in the top of the door frame on either side. A hand held impact driver with a #2 Phillips bit was necessary to dislodge those two screws. The remainder of the job was done with just a #2 Phillips screwdriver. After the two upside down screws are out the top just lifts off. It's held at the back only by location slots. The two remaining screws are under the top on the extreme left and right of the front and face downward. These hold the front door panel onto the frame. Be careful when removing the front panel with the door on it as there are wires near the bottom left corner that must not be ripped out of the door panel. What remained of the old gasket was removed from the grooves in the plastic inner panel upon which the front of the drum rides. The new gasket was put in place in that groove. Reassembly is just the reverse of disassembly. There's no reason to tighten down the two screws holding the top on with the impact driver when putting it back together.

There is a plastic female closure part in the dryer door that wouldn't close tightly around the metal male closure on the dryer. I popped out the plastic square with a screwdriver, popped the new plastic closure in with my thumb. Works great. I never even installed the new metal portion of the latch.

very easy

Unplug the dryer. On the back, I unscrewed the top three screws that hold on the instrument panel and (from the back) slide the panel to my left to disconnect from the top. I opened the dryer door and removed the two screws on the inside top of the doorway to remove the top panel of the dryer. Inside the top of the dryer are two screws to remove so that I could swing the front panel of the dryer out to replace the lower front felt drum seal. I needed to use wd-40 on these screws. When the panel opens, there is no way to disconnect the wires to remove the panel, so I had to prop it up with something so it didn't tip over and damage the wiring; a sturdy chair worked. Then, I heared the drum pop off and drop down a little. I replaced the seal according to the video; by putting it in the groove and pressing it down into the tabs with a flat head screwdriver or something smooth with a little of the seal hanging over the groove at each end. While I was in there, I cleaned out the lint and the wd-40 I used earlier. Then I closed the panel, lifting the drum back into place, ensuring that the dryer drum would turn before and after I replaced the screws. I replaced the top panel and the screws inside the dryer door and slid the instrument panel back into place and replaced those screws. The dryer works great and very quietly now!

Watch the video on how to replace the belt on PartSelct site belt installation page.

followed instructions that came with kit. The problem was the instructions were not very clear with regard to the "type" of burner. the "A" type with the slot is explained but the "B" without the slot wasen't clearly explained. Even that wasen't too bad (I had to re-do that part), But you need to be 20 years old to see the damned print. I had to use my reading glasses AND a magnifying glass to read them. Also with the "B" type burner, which I have, you simply install the limiter part and you don't need (can't) adjust it.

Great service. I got the part in 3 days and having the youtube video was fantastic. I also was able to find other videos also so doing these tasks yourself nowadays is much easier. I was a bit nervous but it turned out to be easy.