GERC4120PQ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

Well I had my oven door ducked taped together. I Am a 51 yr old female and I laid on the floor on my back to see if I could get the rest of the molding out without having to take off the entire oven door. I was able yo pop out the rest of the broken molding. I wasn't able to snap in the put it under the front of the oven door hold it together and screw in my new screw on the inside of the oven door. IT WORKED!! If I can do this so can you.

after watching the video, installed the temp sensor. Super easy

took out the drawer by removing two fillips head screws, four more screws removed the drawer front. Two plastic push pins and the front panel was off. Put the new panel on secured it with the pins, attached it back on the drawer front, put in the screws and slid the drawer back in the stove, put the two screws back in, done deal!

looked on internet on how to remove top. an easy fix after watching video

Watch the video...

I had to unscrew the handle from the door as well as take out the front glass, put the trim in place (Thank God for the bottom placement nipples on each trimpiece), hold everything together after aligning all the pieces in place while I screwed the handle back on. The reason I was replacing the trim in the first place was that it is fragile plastic that had broken on both sides when I replaced one inner glass piece that had broken.

The new element wiring placements were totally different from the old element. Lucky for me the lettering printed on the terminals for each pole was the same as on the old one. It was just a matter of matching up each terminal pole lettering. The instructions that came with the new element were of no help at all. Youtube was my best helper.

Took off oven door removed all screws to get old hinges out. Replaced with new hinges and put the door back together.

I found on youtube Also we marked each wire with masking tape 1A and 1B, 2A and 2B. The wires were the same color.

very easy watched the howto you gave

Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out

Do not remove the oven door. (Not necessary.)
Remove the lower storage drawer.
While laying on the floor, remove 5 screws on bottom edge of door, two on each end, one in the middle. Middle screw is slightly different than other 4.
Caution: When removing the lower trim, the front glass may slip down. Be prepared to catch it. The side trim pieces may also slip out.
It helps to have a second pair of hands here. If needed: Slide the front glass back into place. Slide the side trim pieces back into place.
Position new lower trim piece, align holes. Start with the center screw, then the end screws. Leave all screws "loose" until all 5 are threaded, then tighten.
NOT recommended to caulk trim to prevent future rust. The caulk will act like glue on the front glass.