GERC4110PB0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Do not remove the oven door. (Not necessary.)
Remove the lower storage drawer.
While laying on the floor, remove 5 screws on bottom edge of door, two on each end, one in the middle. Middle screw is slightly different than other 4.
Caution: When removing the lower trim, the front glass may slip down. Be prepared to catch it. The side trim pieces may also slip out.
It helps to have a second pair of hands here. If needed: Slide the front glass back into place. Slide the side trim pieces back into place.
Position new lower trim piece, align holes. Start with the center screw, then the end screws. Leave all screws "loose" until all 5 are threaded, then tighten.
NOT recommended to caulk trim to prevent future rust. The caulk will act like glue on the front glass.

Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!

Replaced damaged drawer roller: easy peasy!

1st gen whirlpool Duet dryer sensor not working in automatic cycle.
After ordering the moisture sensor harness which is about 6-8 inches long, I removed the lower panel and it is right there. I disconnected the two wire connectors in the upper left and I need a small screwdriver to disconnect the two pin connector which was a bit of a pain but once replaced I no longer had to use the timed setting to dry clothes and this will save me electricity.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

Took off oven door removed all screws to get old hinges out. Replaced with new hinges and put the door back together.

I found on youtube Also we marked each wire with masking tape 1A and 1B, 2A and 2B. The wires were the same color.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

My dual zone burner would trip my breaker anytime i tried to turn it on. All the other burners would work fine. I searched online and found a way to test my burner, which was shorted or grounded out. I purchased a new burner from the site...It was as cheap or cheaper than other sites. It showed up a few days quicker than i was expecting..I also replaced the switch to the burner, just as a precaution and to save time since i already had the top glass off of my burners....EASY JOB!

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

Followed the instructions in the video provided by PartSelect, which was very accurate. They only problem I have encountered is that the wiring from the old element compared to the new element do not match up 100%. I had to call Whirlpool today and schedule a Tech to come out and see if they can resolve the problem. Right now, when the burner is turned on, both the inner and outer elements turn on.

The new element wiring placements were totally different from the old element. Lucky for me the lettering printed on the terminals for each pole was the same as on the old one. It was just a matter of matching up each terminal pole lettering. The instructions that came with the new element were of no help at all. Youtube was my best helper.

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

Removed the ifinite controlswitch and replaced it but i dont believe it is wired correctly. now it wont get hot until it is set on four or so. think i the way it is wired.