GDWT358V55ES General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Just have a good look at how the original is installed before removing, then clean the area. The new one was a breeze to install, just line it up and pop it in.

I disconnected the pipes to the inlet valve. I removed the bolts from the bracket holding the valve. I tried to use two wrenches to remove the brass angle pipe thingie off the bottom of the old valve. I then beat on it with a hammer, then I just threw it against the basement floor till it came off. I would recommend getting a new brass angle pipe thingie before you start.

I examined how the old gasket was attached before removing it. I then pushed in the new gasket needing no tools. There has been no water leakage since.

installed new silverware basket

opened the dishwasher .............removed the old and slid in the new ...then attached by dropping in the utensil compartment.....piece of cake

I took the old one out and replaced it with the new one. It did take both hands as I had to open the dishwasher door while the other hand held the basket. :D

Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...

Pulled out the old gasket and replaced with the new gasket. Inserted the steel spring clip into the ends of the gasket. Repair complete.

The quiet power 3 has the heating element in the back, so remove the screws holding the unit in place. Remove the bottom cover and disconnect the water inlet pipe, (after turning off the water of course). Discard the copper tubing if applicable, and pull dishwasher out until you can tilt it forward. Unsrew the plastic nuts and remove the wires for the element. Test the old one to make sure that you need to replace it. When sure of the problem reinstall in the reverse order. Replace the copper with stainless steel braided line and test.

After determining that the leak was coming from the sump connector, I had to completely remove the unit from the counter. After removing all the parts in the wash cabinet (wash arms,conduit,fine,course and sump filters),the sump connector nut was revealed which I loosened, but did not remove, with a channel lock plier. The unit was then placed up-side down where I then loosened all the worm clamps that attached the drain motor,pump,and turbidity sensor to the sump and sump connector.then I removed the brackets that braced the pump to the washer body and removed the pump.at this point,you should be able to remove the drain motor and turbidity sensor from the sump and remove the sump from the washer. You should also be able to remove the connector as well.Both these items are made of some type of rubber which seems to deteriorate from the soap which was caked all over them in my case. Just reverse the above process to re-install everthing. I didn't find this job terribly difficult and it was certainly better than spending hundreds replacing the unit.

Removed the door gasket and cleaned the track prior to installing the new gasket. The online repair instructions didn't mention a thin wire that is stored at the bottom of the tub near the door and is used to hold the ends of the gasket in place. Gently remove the ends of the gasket from the wire prior to pulling the entire gasket out of the machine track.

After reading other customer responses I decided to attempt the repair myself. After pulling out dishwasher I turned it on it's side and prodeeded to remove the 3 screws holding it in place. FIFTEEN minutes later I pushed it back into position and it has performed like new for the past month. Comparing parts and service I saved about $200.00 on this self repair. I would not hesitate to undertake another repair after my experience.

Simply took out the broken rack and inserted the new one.

Installed new rack assembly and it works fine. Thanks

Ordered new and they fit right in. No problems.