GDWT166V00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Really all it took was removal of the old wheels which would not stay on anyway and the installation of the new ones. That required the axle and wheel being put together and the installing both of those on the lower rack. I was about to buy a new dishwasher when the salesmen told me about a product called Lemi Shine it saved my hundreds of dollars and the inside of my dishwasher looks brand new. With my new wheels I am good to go again.

I simply removed the old (broken) stud rollers by pinching them with a needle nose pliers and pushing them out, snapped the new stud roller in the wheel, and snapped the wheel onto the lower basket unit. If you have all of the wheels and they are in good shape, you do not need to buy new wheels, the new stud rollers work just fine with the old wheels.

So easy, even I was able to do it. Slide tabs back on defective basket and remove both sides, then slide the tabs onto new basket and place in dishwasher. All Done!

Watched the video, and followed the directions. Although my machine had some slight differences, the repair went pretty much per the video. Got all connections back where they belonged, cleaned up the insides a little while had the door parts separated, then buttoned it all back up, ran a cleaning solution thru empty washer, let it dry then started filling with dishes and ran the wash cycle the next day when full. All is well.

shut off water. removed lower panel disconnected power removed supply hose and outlet hose. disconnected electrical plug from valve. Un bolted valve from frame. removed elbow from valve inlet. installed elbow on new valve using Teflon tape. reinstalled valve to frame. connect hoses + electric plug to new valve. turn water on check for leaks. reconnect power. run dish washer check for leaks & popper operation. reinstall lower panel.

Used teflon tape around new 3/8 elbow. Re-installed valve in originals postion. Connected supply hose and reconnected electrical to valve.

Everything went fine until the reattachment of the spring loaded hinges. They have to be reattached with the door in the almost closed position. Not impossible.

Followed the instruction video on your website. It was accurate and valid. The repair should have taken 15 mins., instead one of the screws holding the dispenser was frozen. Tried DW-40, and liquid wrench. Neither worked because the screw was in plastic.Finally got out the Dremel and cutting wheels. Had to cut away enough of the unit until I could get at the screw (it was the center bottom one). Sliced through some more of the housing, then cut a notch in the screw head deep enough so I could apply enough pressure with a flat blade screwdriver to open it. After that things went as smoothly as could be expected.A bad design and cheap materials.

I repaired by replacing both inner rails.
I found that removing an inner rail from the rack is difficult. It can be done with strong fingers separating the tabs of a front Y hook after releasing the rear hook so the rack can slide off the horizontal locator rods. It helps to apply liquid soap to the old inner rails Y clips to reduce friction.
Clean the outer rails thoroughly with a brush and liquid cleaner so the rails can engage
Inserting the inner rails into the outer rails is difficult when they are already attached to the rack. It's much easier to insert the rails independently of the rack. Push the outer rails into the inner rails while applying force to keep them engaged

Attach the rack to the rails by inserting the long rear horizontal rods of the rack into the rear clips of the rail.
Assure the tabs in the rear clips are locked
Again, it helps to apply liquid soap to the new inner rail Y clips to reduce friction
Hold the rails in place and pull the rack forward to engage the front rails with Y clips to the shorter front horizontal rods of the rack.
Force them together to spread the Y clips and lock the rails into them.

Turned off the power at the main box. Removed the six phillips screws and two bottom hex screws holding the front panel. Removed the two solenoid wires on the old dispenser (Label wire polarity). Removed the eight screws holding the old soap dispensor and took it out. Cleaned the area around the hole. Laid down a bead of silicon caulk around the hole edges. Placed the new dispenser in the hole and replaced the eight screws (do not over tighten). Replaced the two wires on the dispenser solenoid (check polarity). Replaced the front cover (Do not over tighten. Turned on the power and job complete.

Very easy - remove the screws around the inside of the door. 6 screws and 2 plugs to remove the assembly. Just be careful not the strip the sheetmetal screws when putting it back together. No screwguns...

Popped in the new one and done!!!

Took screws out that hold front panel on, unplugged wiring, changed soap dispenser, and put everything back together. Not a bad repair at all.

I simply removed the bad part and reversed the process. It was very easy and a 12 year old could do it. Thanks for the online tips and recommendations. You saved me over 400.00 which is what a new unit would run. Plus installation. Many Thanks.

I removed the old rack and saved the flatware container. Then I put the new rack in.

The difference between the old one and the new one is that between a busted grocery cart with one wheel that always wants to return to the parking lot, and a well-trained dog that does exactly what I ask it to. The new rack was worth the $95 I spent to get it.

The new rack came with wheels and axles, so I didn't need to order more.