GD1329CES2 (ASSEELC) LG Dryer - Instructions

Opened front of dryer - removed drum - replace all 4 rollers (2 had bad shafts) - replace drum with new belt - reassembled

Followed video provided on site

Watched a repair video. Very easy to replace, about an hour to repair.

FIRST REMOVED THE LID ON TOP OF DRYER.THEN THE CONTROL PANEL AND THE STEAM TRAY. HAVE TO UNCLIP TWO HARNEST CONNECTORS. REMOVED THE FACE PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DRYER WALLS TOGETHER ALSO REMOVE TO SENSOR HARNESS CLIPS. .REMOVED THE BELT FROM MOTOR. TOOK DRUM OUT . UNCLIPPED MOTOR COLLAR SNAP CLIPS DISCONNECT THE MOTOR HARNESS. INSTALL NE MOTOR AND CONNECT HARNESS INSTALL CLIP . REINSTALL DRUM AND PUT BELT ON. CONNECT HANESSES AND INSTALL FACE PLATE. INSTALL CONTROL PANEL AND THE TOP LID.

To install the repair part took about 5 minutes. It took a couple hours to take apart of put back together. Unfortunately the part I replaced was not the problem. I still have no heat. My own fault for not testing the parts before ordering. It seems there is no ignition of the gas for the hot air flow. I would be grateful for any suggestions. The video was FABULOUS...really step by step, screw by screw. Thanks for that. Barb Swenson

I did as I was told (by my wife). Bought the machine from Home Depot - no side vent kit - had them complete the installation today when the kit came.

I took the top off, I disattached the front and took the front top of dryer off, taking the front of dryer off, detached the belt and took the drum out, found the wheels took the plastic triangle off and took the wheels off and replaced wheels, then did everything in reverse and no more thumping. just remember to unplug unit before working on it. And also Part Select is a very good site and place to get parts, very fair priced and very professional.

I had ask how to get the top off., it was simple ,take 3 screws off the bottom angle bracket .and slide top back about 2" then lift.then remove the front panels. '

My lg electric dryer would not heat up. I went on line and found that the thermostats (there are two) could cause this problem. I used my dvm to ohm out the thermostats and found that the high heat thermostat was open. I replaced this thermostat and the dryer ran for a little while and then quit heating. When I checked the high heat thermostat again I found it to be open again. I then ordered and replaced both thermostats and the dryer has been working well since. The hardest part about this repair was the job of taking the dryer drum out to access the thermostats. I did however get good at doing this.

First, I set my laptop up in the laundry room, and went onto Youtube, searched LG dryer repair sensor install. then went step by step, pausing the video and starting it as I went. Then I Plugged it in and it worked. For $50 and some time I was able to do it, the prices from partselect are great and the turn around on shipping was super fast. Thank you Partselect. Kevin

You will need a helper. Dismantle the Dryer: Remove the screws that hold the top cover, front control panel, front door and front panel. Release the V-Belt under the drum. Remove the Drum. Removed and replace the 2 Front roller assemblies - these were completely worn. Replaced the 2 rear rollers (did not replace the rear roller axels as these were more difficult to remove and they were in good shape) and the V-Belt while I had the whole thing open. Use a shop vac and cleaned up the whole unit. It is so nice and quiet now.

I accessed the thermostats by removing the exhaust pipe and a plate where the exhaust can be ported on the side as an alternative. You need to get two hands inside to work. I struggled a bit before I noticed the removable access plate on theside. Took about 40 mins to get all three thermostats replaced. not too bad, but it is a tight working space.

Not knowing whether it was the pulley, tensioner, or drum roller I had previously pulled the dryer apart and noticed one roller shaft was rusty for some reason. When the part came in (which was quite fast)I disassembled the dryer to the point that I could remove the left rear drum roller. Replaced the roller and reassembled the dryer (to my surprise without any extra screws or parts left). Fairly easy job, just time consuming.

I first took the top off, then the front control panel, unplugged the wires from panel (very easy), took the front panel off, the rum comes out very easy, be sure to look at the way the belt goes back on the pulley. I didn't and it took me a while to figure it out. All goes back together very easy.

removed the top of the dryer first by removing screws in the back and pulling the top back and up. Removed the control panel, followed by the door. The front panel and top brace were then removed. The belt was disengaged by pulling the tensioner idler and working the belt off the motor pulley. The drum was lifted out and set aside with the other parts. Holding the motor shaft with vice-grip pliers, and turning the nut on the blower wheel (left-hand thread!)removed the blower wheel. The motor is held by snap-on retainers and easily removed and swapped. Installation is reverse of disassembly. While in there, cleaned out the lint gathered everywhere. Also constructed a heat shield out of aluminum flashing and foil tape to cover the foil and foam tape between the burner assembly and sheet metal side. The foam had actually burned at some point in the past and the flashing should act as a better heat shield. A relatively easy repair, but should not have been necessary in a 7 year old dryer.