GCWN2800D1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Followed your video instructions and removed agitator.Used 7/16 3/8 in socket wrench to remove bolt in the agitator coupling and replaced coupling. Put new bolt in and tightened. Installed Agitator.Works Great.

First I googled the problem. Then ordered your part, from specs on your website. Went to Lowes and bout butt splicers. Then when I got email that it shipped I watched the video attached. Awesome. Very proud as I am a woman. Video was excellent. Thank you, Maureen

Popped off the front panel and removed two screws that help top down. Then pulled the top of the washer up and leaned back out of way.Then each strap had a screw on each end and a clip that holds straps just remove the old and replace with new and put back together.

Just slipped it on. No problems, No Tools.

used a socket to unscrew the clip. pulled out the old hose, slid the new hose into the clip and screwed the clip back on. all fixes should be this easy.

Remove control knob and replace it with new part.

One retaining clip to remove and replace part.

I followed partselect repair videos to see how to pop off the front panel and also remove the top control panel. Lay the control panel on top of the washer and leave everything connected. With power disconnected I first checked the fill tube and fill sensor by pulling the rubber tube off the bottom of the drum and blowing in the tube - you can hear the sensor click on and off. It requires more pressure if you set the water level switch to a larger load. This behavior told me the tube and sensor were working but this must be an airtight system to be reliable. To test for slow air leaks I blew in the tube to cause the switch to click, then clamped the rubber tube shut with a C-clamp. I left it overnight and no leaks - the switch was still activated in the morning, as I could hear it click when I released the C-clamp. I then suspected the fill valve, so I plugged in the power cord, set the washer for a load and started it. The water started filling and I unplugged the power cord, which should cause the fill valve to shut off immediately. It did not - it kept on filling with water, but in this case eventually shut off after 60-90 seconds. Since it did not shut off immediately when power was removed I knew the fill valve was sticking. I ordered the fill valve from partselect and received it in a couple days. Replacement was easy - shut off water, remove the hoses, and then 3 screws and two electrical connectors to swap out the valve. Then 3 screws to put the control panel back on and snap the front panel back in place. Done. Since replacing the fill valve the washer has been working perfectly.

This is a very easy repair. I followed the video instructions for the timer and knob. The basic steps are:
1. Unplug appliance and move it away from wall for access to back.
2. Remove three hex head screws behind control panel/
3. Tilt control panel forward and slide it sideways to free it from the washing machine.
4. Remove knob using a flat head screw driver to slide retaining clip
5. Disconnect electrical harness from timer assembly.
6. Remove one screw holding timer to control panel and rotate the timer assembly to remove it.
7. Install and connect new timer.
8. Complete installation by re-installing knob, panel screws, etc.
Very easy.

Turned off the both the hot and cold water. Removed the hoses from the back of the control panel. Removed 3 panel screws to expose the inside of the component parts. Removed the 2 screws holding the valve. Installed the new valve. Then I pulled off the knob for the temperature control. To remove the switch, you need to press the tab that locks in the switch and turn the switch counter clockwise to remove the switch from the panel. Reverse the operation to reinstall the new switch. Pay close attention to the 4 wires that clip to the switch to get them in proper order. Reinstall the control panel and and reattach the hoses.

You tube is the only way to go!

Followed video to take washer apart. I used the Shaft & Drive Assembly to tap out bearing as it was stuck. BTW the screeching was because the Shaft & Drive Assembly ball bearing retainer cage was in pieces. Replaced tub bearing and installed new Shaft & Drive Assembly. Washer now runs like new. Get the spanner wrench to remove existing nut and purchase a new nut.

Followed video on You tube that showed step by step how to compete repair.
The machine used in video was brand new and there was no corrosion on any parts so disassembly was much easier in video than on 9 year old machine.
Also reinstalling drive belt was a little tedious but overall job very straightforward and resulted in positive improvements in performance and greatly reduced noise levels.

I watched the video from the web site and the one that came with my invoice. This made it very easy to fix.I got the tools that I needed and went to town on the repair.

I researched what could be the problem in the internet and follow the instructions from a GE technician, I chose the problem from a list and followed the video the technician played on how to do it yourself. This time was the lid switch which is found visible under the lid opening usually right middle flush with the opening. When I got the new lid, only the switch gets bad so I cut the cable enough to replace the old one, pulled out and cut and connected the new one. If there is not enough cable use the spatula to push the clips on the front panel on the top both side about 5 inches from the corner and pull panel out front and now you can see the wires better and make the connection.

Removed knob by using screwdriver to pry out plastic retainer. Put new knob on the timer. Took about 5 minutes. The problem was caused by the wearing out of the teeth on the knob.