GCWN2800D0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Folks,

Thanks to your great web site and help video I got this fixed in less than a minute. Literally less time than it took me to watch your helpful video. Don't know how to thank you - keep up the good work!

The washer came apart fairly easy until I tried removing tub nut Huge Problem!! After beating the spanner wrench to death I purchased a $50 43mm impact socket to remove the nut. I cleaned up the tub and shaft and started reassembly by replacing bearing 6006rs that I found locally. When I started installing the tub seal I ran into a major issue. Seal would not fit properly, it was to loose in tub. The seal was not large enough for outside diameter. It was a 1/16 of inch or so off. I tried two seals and neither one would work. After talking with a retired repair tech I found that the tub was bad and that the old seal had corroded so bad that it expanded the tub seal housing. I decided not to spend anymore money for this junk of a washer and I applied rtv sealant & reassembled. I'll use it until it breaks down and trash it, very bad design for tub seal, nothing holds it in place, pushed up out of tub. I don't think the rtv sealant well hold for very long. I do appreciate the instructional video for repairs, they are very helpful for showing procedures as to the repair but it's a new machine that's used and everything comes apart so easy. 5 year old washer doesn't come apart that easy. It took 2 weeks to fix it after waiting on parts and doing a unconventional repair to tub seal. So now my wife has started searching for another washer because this one is running on a prayer!

Followed your video instructions and removed agitator.Used 7/16 3/8 in socket wrench to remove bolt in the agitator coupling and replaced coupling. Put new bolt in and tightened. Installed Agitator.Works Great.

Just slipped it on. No problems, No Tools.

Remove control knob and replace it with new part.

One retaining clip to remove and replace part.

used a socket to unscrew the clip. pulled out the old hose, slid the new hose into the clip and screwed the clip back on. all fixes should be this easy.

Turned off the both the hot and cold water. Removed the hoses from the back of the control panel. Removed 3 panel screws to expose the inside of the component parts. Removed the 2 screws holding the valve. Installed the new valve. Then I pulled off the knob for the temperature control. To remove the switch, you need to press the tab that locks in the switch and turn the switch counter clockwise to remove the switch from the panel. Reverse the operation to reinstall the new switch. Pay close attention to the 4 wires that clip to the switch to get them in proper order. Reinstall the control panel and and reattach the hoses.

This is a very easy repair. I followed the video instructions for the timer and knob. The basic steps are:
1. Unplug appliance and move it away from wall for access to back.
2. Remove three hex head screws behind control panel/
3. Tilt control panel forward and slide it sideways to free it from the washing machine.
4. Remove knob using a flat head screw driver to slide retaining clip
5. Disconnect electrical harness from timer assembly.
6. Remove one screw holding timer to control panel and rotate the timer assembly to remove it.
7. Install and connect new timer.
8. Complete installation by re-installing knob, panel screws, etc.
Very easy.

I followed partselect repair videos to see how to pop off the front panel and also remove the top control panel. Lay the control panel on top of the washer and leave everything connected. With power disconnected I first checked the fill tube and fill sensor by pulling the rubber tube off the bottom of the drum and blowing in the tube - you can hear the sensor click on and off. It requires more pressure if you set the water level switch to a larger load. This behavior told me the tube and sensor were working but this must be an airtight system to be reliable. To test for slow air leaks I blew in the tube to cause the switch to click, then clamped the rubber tube shut with a C-clamp. I left it overnight and no leaks - the switch was still activated in the morning, as I could hear it click when I released the C-clamp. I then suspected the fill valve, so I plugged in the power cord, set the washer for a load and started it. The water started filling and I unplugged the power cord, which should cause the fill valve to shut off immediately. It did not - it kept on filling with water, but in this case eventually shut off after 60-90 seconds. Since it did not shut off immediately when power was removed I knew the fill valve was sticking. I ordered the fill valve from partselect and received it in a couple days. Replacement was easy - shut off water, remove the hoses, and then 3 screws and two electrical connectors to swap out the valve. Then 3 screws to put the control panel back on and snap the front panel back in place. Done. Since replacing the fill valve the washer has been working perfectly.

You tube is the only way to go!

Followed video to take washer apart. I used the Shaft & Drive Assembly to tap out bearing as it was stuck. BTW the screeching was because the Shaft & Drive Assembly ball bearing retainer cage was in pieces. Replaced tub bearing and installed new Shaft & Drive Assembly. Washer now runs like new. Get the spanner wrench to remove existing nut and purchase a new nut.

Followed video on You tube that showed step by step how to compete repair.
The machine used in video was brand new and there was no corrosion on any parts so disassembly was much easier in video than on 9 year old machine.
Also reinstalling drive belt was a little tedious but overall job very straightforward and resulted in positive improvements in performance and greatly reduced noise levels.

I was using vice grips to turn the control knob (stub) until the new knob arrived. The replacement knob was a redesigned type with a metal backing plate to place on the control knob stub (better than the original plastic knob) however the diameter of the new knob is only half the size of the original knob and the mark on the dial does not line up with the markings on the dryer control panel making it difficult to know what cycle you are using or how far to turn the dial within each cycle before passing to the next cycle.

I pulled on the bottom edges of the agitator, like the video said, until my fingers were numb. Finally, after I got aggravated, I beat the old agitator into a hundred pieces with a hammer and chisel. Then I slid the new agitator into place and gently tapped on the top of it. It snapped into place and has worked like a new one every since.

Used this site to find probable problem - stripped teeth on knob - and how to get old knob off using needle nosed pliers to remove clip. So also ordered replacement knob from this site - got it in one day! Took about 2 minutes to put replacement knob on. Most of repair time was figuring out what the problem was.