GCW1069LS (ABWELAT) LG Washer - Instructions

Looked at videos on line at Parts Select. Very easy instructions to watch and follow. After unplugging the washer all I had to do was turn off the cold water valve, remove the supply line, two screws to get the lid off, then two screws to remove the valve and disconnected the electric connector tabs. Took pliers to back the three hose clamps off. The best tip was replacing each hose back on the valve one at a time to prevent mix ups. I did everything in reverse after installation. I ran one short cycle to test the leak. Works perfectly!
A tip I saw on You Tube - I have vinyl flooring in my wash room and a repair guy said to spray a light shot of WD 40 under the feet. It doesn’t take much. Man, my washer slid like it was on wheels! I wiped away any excess spray and let it dry under the feet. I’m not sure how this works on other types of floors.

It was giving me a code got on YouTube it gave the code after that bought a new pump and fix done

Watched video on U-Tube , unplug power cord, turn off water, take top off washing machine, remove water hoses, unscrew parts, remove hoses with pliers, install replacement parts, put all back together. Does not leak any more !

Just like it shows on You tube but one of the shocks did not come with the plastic pegs so i used the old one. I need to order the springs now and replace them.

I removed the top of the washer, pried the front control panel off (pull a couple of electrical connecters or just rest it on something), separated the tub sleeve from the front panel and then removed the front panel (two screws). To remove the pump - just remove a couple of hoses, two wires and slide it out of the clip below. Reverse the process to install. A little daunting if you haven't done something like this before, but easily do-able once you get past your fears. A service call would cost much more than the $60.00 it took to get the part to my front door. This worked out really great - my wash smells fresh once again and my wife has moved on to the next project on her honey-do list!

First I had to elevate the washer on 3-5 gal. buckets in order to get underneath it and find the leak. Then I tried to repair the hose itself-which actually worked-but then the rest of the hose just started splitting everywhere I touched it. So I ordered the new part which took some careful comparing and examination online. But it was exactly the right part. You have to remove the top of the washer which is just 2 or 3 screws. Then taking the hose out was a little challenge-knowing I would have to put the new one back in carefully. Use Vaseline on rubber fitting at the end of the hose that connects to the washer. Need at least 2 people to raise the washer up in air to work on it.

Removed the front and rear covers ,the control panel , removed the shock absorber pins and shocks installed new shocks and reassembled

When to utube typed in my problem, very easy fix

I removed the tub. Thin included disassembling the washer and disconnecting various hoses electrical connectors to facilitate the removal of the tub from the machine.
Once removed, I separated the two halves of the tub and removed the metal basket to gain access to the bearings and seal.
Removal of the bearings was much harder than expected as they were very difficult to drive out of their pressed in mounting.
I finally was able to remove the bearings and fabricated a press using a piece of all thread and two steel plates to install the new bearings and seal.
I would not attempt to do this again with the proper bearing pullers and an official press to install the bearings gently without beating the tub housing.
This repair I feel is beyond the scope of your average DIY. The bearings can be damaged easily without the specialized tools to install the components.

Pretty straight forward video located on YouTube. Video is about 30 min long. Watched it for an overview and did it myself being mechanically inclined.

The repair went good but time consuming. I replaced both inner and outer tub bearings along with the tub seal. I removed top by removing two screws in back then pulling back slighty then lifting up. I removed soap tray by pressing down tab and pulling out. Loosened soap dispenser and folded back on top. I removed control panel then front door panel. Remove back panel. Remove motor and shocks and hanging springs which there are two. Disconnect the hoses attached to tub then pull the tub. Remove screws holding the tub halves together. Use punch to remove bearings. NOTE: If you put the bearings in the freezer prior to installing, they go in much easier. I used the old bearing, set it on the new bearing then I tapped the old bearing so not to damage new bearings. I replaced the seal then put everything back together. Not difficult but time consuming.

I took the washer completely apart and ordered any parts that looked worn and put it back together. It’s working like new and will last for a few years

Watch the videos on u-tube. I used the video where they did not take the top and front of the machine off. Make sure you get the spring pliers because they really do help

I followed the video and it was quite simple. There was an extra sheet metal screw at the bottom of the front panel which kept it from coming free of the three tabs. On the two pump wite connectors I made a mental note that the black wires were on top. The repair also fixed the lack of water flow through the degeterent dispenser. I was afraid of putting the tub seal back in place as a pro struggled with it when it was new and under warranty. It really was no problem at all. Take some phone pics along the way boosted my confidence.

Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.