GCVH6800J1MS General Electric Washer - Instructions

The cycles were taking forever, then would not finish, water running in even when it was supposed to drain. Unplugged washer and water would still run, I had to turn off the water valve. I just removed the top with phillips screwdriver, removed the old valve by uncoupling the water hose, the two electric connectors and the two one screw holding it in place. It fixed the problem completely, washer working 100% now.

After looking at the video on how to repair a door boot seal on a Front Loader Washer. I went about installing the new boot seal, but after it still didn't fit in place correctly, I glanced over the top and noticed and after a few minutes noticed that one of the suspension springs was broken and the drum had dropped quite a bit. I ordered the spring I believe it was part 204 and in a couple days I and my father got the spring in place and now the washer is working as good as new. As it turns out I didn't need the door boot seal after all so now I have a backup incase one fails.

Any repair should go easily if you have the right tools and the right PARTS. Like the before mentioned and all went well. The hardest thing about this particular water leak is identifining were the leak is. These parts are on the top of the washer. Take the top off and whamo there it is the cracked fill tube and smashed to hell washer. Real easy to replace. BUT that is really putting a band-aid on the problem. To me this washer was poorly designed by GE. Washer sits on a thick rubber mat, which sits on a conrcete floor and still jumps around, mainly when towels are in it.Fix that problem and then replacing these parts is a one time deal.

Unplug the machine. Remove the 4 screws on the back panel of the washer. Loosen the tub pulley bolt. Remove the old belt (mine did not completely break, it was shredded and slipped off the pulley). Replace with the new belt. Tighten the pulley bolt. Put the back panel on. Plug in the washer. It is working like new. :)

All i did is pull the front panel off,then n removed the front clap with channel locks then the side clamp the same way.i then removed the main clamp with a Phillips screwdriver very simple not ever 15 minutes to do

Step 1- pull washer away from wall. Step2- unplug power, shut off water and disconnect lines, and disconnect drain line. Step 3- unscrew 3 screws from bk and 3 screws from behind control panel. Step 4- remove back of control panel and top of washer. Step 5- unplug wires from old valve and plug into new valve to avoid wrong connection take out screw from back releasing old valve , insert new valve and put back screw. Step 6 put top of washer and back of control panel on and insert screws. Step 7- reconnect hoses and drain , plug washer in and test. All done. I recommend adjusting to level if necessary at this point before pushing back against wall. Good luck. Hope this helps somebody. Jon

Remove the bottom panel. Remove the top. Remove the front panel with the door. Romove the two clamps on the boot seal. Remove the old boot seal. Place the new boot seal on the casing around the drum and ensure you put the gasket nozzle and gasket nozzle washer in place. Install the inside gasket clamp with the clamp bolt to the right as you look at it (Note: ensure the nut is over the tab on the boot gasket and stays lined up there as you tighten it. Replace the front panel of the washer and when it is in place put the boot seal on the outside lip (Note: this is the most difficult part as the gaskets does not like to stay in place as you put the outside clamp on. Replace the washer top. Replace the lower panel (Note: while you have the bottom panel off, you may want to clean the debrie trap which is a white pipe and tray that catches stuff that is left in pockets.) For the entire project I used 7mm and 8 mm sockets, flathead screw driver, and a philips head screw drive.

Removed old pump and replaced. Did not want to wait 2-3 weeks for a repair person

Let me begin by saying I'm a woman & don't really think of myself as handy but will try a repair. So at first look we thought we'd have to hire a repairman, but after looking at your website & reading the reviews I realized I could fix it myself (or atleast try). I wouldn't recommend doing this repair yourself without watching the YouTube video showing step by step instructions. It was involved - had to take entire front & top off of washer but overall was an somewhat easy fix. The hardest part to me was getting the 2nd band off of the boot seal primarily due to it's location, so when I put band back on I tried to adjust the angle should I have any other problems. Repair took about 1 1/2 hours but wouldn't have taken as long if I didn't have to fight with nut & bolt on the 2nd band.

My husband read all of the posted notes and then went to the you tube video noted by one of the postings. He gives excellent instructions and the video can be paused as each step is completed. The most difficult steps were gaining access to the rear clamp and attaching the rear portion of the gasket. Inserted a phillips head driver bit into a 1/2" deep socket and then used the rachet to remove and re-install this clamp.

Called a Repair Man, he came installed the part and I now have a working washer once again:)

Best to watch youtube video and take the time to take washer apart and gain the access needed. I completed repair and dismantled the filter and cleaned it in about an hour, better than the average of 2 hours.

After I disconnected the power and water and turned the washer around. I removed the back panel cover and the top and back panel to get to the pulley wheel. Once I remove the retaining nut and pulley the wheel off the spindle, i compared the new and the old parts and noticed the obvious wear on the old part, luckily the spindle was not damaged and still functional. Placing the new pulley wheel was a little more challenging. Once I seated the pulley wheel with a gentle tap from a rubber mallet. I fitted the lock nut onto the spindle and continued seating the wheel evenly using the nut to the prescribed torque pressure. After I reassembled the washer and reconnected the water and power, tested the washer, and success!

Removed top cover, loosened front door cover, removed & replaced old cracked plastic 'water inlet tube', reinstalled front door unit & top cover. Very tight space to work in when not completely removing front door unit.

Followed your instruction, very easy. I installed Camco 90" & 45" Brass elbows to relieve strain on hoses.