GCVH6800J0MB General Electric Washer - Instructions

This is the second door boot seal that I've replaced on my GE Washer (I don't know the model number). I turned on my IPad, went on YouTube, and found this video: "GE Front Loader Washer Gasket Replacement." I placed the IPad on top of the dryer which was right next to the washer and followed the instructions step by step. I used the pause and play buttons repeatedly to ensure I followed the instructions correctly. The hardest part was placing two retainer rings back on. These retainer rings are used to attach the gasket to the washer drum and to the door opening. When the door is closed it effectively seals the drum preventing water from spilling out or leaking. Before reinstalling both rings, ensure that the gasket is properly seated inside the appropriate grooves on the drum and the door opening respectively. It’s a very tight fit between gasket and metal, so you have to make sure the gasket is properly seated all the way around. The inside retainer ring can be tighten with a Philips screw driver or a small wrench. Not as easy as it sounds because you don't have too much room to work with. I had to grab the drum on the right side and tilt to the left in order to get a little more room for my screwdriver. It may be easier with a small wrench, but I don't have the patience. The second retainer ring goes on the outside of the gasket and the door opening. This ring is spring loaded. Attempt to place as much of the ring inside the groove before the spring loaded tension prevents you from going any further. When you get to this point, take a flat tip screwdriver (careful not to damage the gasket) and hold the retainer ring in place while moving counterclockwise and with a second flat tip screwdriver stretched the ring and popped into place until the whole ring is in place. The guy in the video does this effortlessly with only his hands. The first time I did this, my wife helped me do it. She held the left side while I used two flat tip screwdrivers to stretch the ring, pop in place, hold, stretch, and pop in place until complete. Once you're done you will feel good about yourself and grateful to the gentleman who recorded the video and was nice enough to share. Good luck.

Called a Repair Man, he came installed the part and I now have a working washer once again:)

After I disconnected the power and water and turned the washer around. I removed the back panel cover and the top and back panel to get to the pulley wheel. Once I remove the retaining nut and pulley the wheel off the spindle, i compared the new and the old parts and noticed the obvious wear on the old part, luckily the spindle was not damaged and still functional. Placing the new pulley wheel was a little more challenging. Once I seated the pulley wheel with a gentle tap from a rubber mallet. I fitted the lock nut onto the spindle and continued seating the wheel evenly using the nut to the prescribed torque pressure. After I reassembled the washer and reconnected the water and power, tested the washer, and success!

Let me begin by saying I'm a woman & don't really think of myself as handy but will try a repair. So at first look we thought we'd have to hire a repairman, but after looking at your website & reading the reviews I realized I could fix it myself (or atleast try). I wouldn't recommend doing this repair yourself without watching the YouTube video showing step by step instructions. It was involved - had to take entire front & top off of washer but overall was an somewhat easy fix. The hardest part to me was getting the 2nd band off of the boot seal primarily due to it's location, so when I put band back on I tried to adjust the angle should I have any other problems. Repair took about 1 1/2 hours but wouldn't have taken as long if I didn't have to fight with nut & bolt on the 2nd band.

My husband read all of the posted notes and then went to the you tube video noted by one of the postings. He gives excellent instructions and the video can be paused as each step is completed. The most difficult steps were gaining access to the rear clamp and attaching the rear portion of the gasket. Inserted a phillips head driver bit into a 1/2" deep socket and then used the rachet to remove and re-install this clamp.

Accessing the door seal was routine. Removing top and front covers was easy. Lower front cover was a challenge because the leaking door caused the screws holding the panel to rust, so extra effort had to be used not to strip the screw heads. Seal removal was easy, replacing the seal was much more difficult. The majority of the repair time was spent attaching the new seal to the drum. It became a tedious task with a large amount of trial and error. Replacing the front spring clamp also takes some time. Eventually I completed the repair and fixed the problem. I will say that if the washer breaks again, it's going to the dump.