GCVH6600H0MS General Electric Washer - Instructions

I followed the instruction on your site. I disconnected the power to the washer turned off the water turned on the nearest faucets to drain the lines. I removed the water hoses from the machine then took the three screws out of the back at the top of machine that held the lid on then removed the three screws on the top of the lid that hold the plastic piece to the front panel and pushed the lid toward the back and it lifted off. I then took the metal ring clamp off the water line attached to the water inlet valve and took the screw out that is on the back of the machine holding it on removed the wire plugs one at a time and put them one at a time on the new inlet valve so I would not get them mixed up. I then put the valve in place reconnected the water hose and metal clamp put the screw in the back to reattach valve the machine put the lid back on in reverse to removal reattached water hoses to the inlet valve turned the water back on plug in the power and immediately used the machine which works like new 20 minute job from beginning to end. By the way ladies if I can do it you can do it. TC

Any repair should go easily if you have the right tools and the right PARTS. Like the before mentioned and all went well. The hardest thing about this particular water leak is identifining were the leak is. These parts are on the top of the washer. Take the top off and whamo there it is the cracked fill tube and smashed to hell washer. Real easy to replace. BUT that is really putting a band-aid on the problem. To me this washer was poorly designed by GE. Washer sits on a thick rubber mat, which sits on a conrcete floor and still jumps around, mainly when towels are in it.Fix that problem and then replacing these parts is a one time deal.

Took of back and lower panel to check where leak was look up and notice the plastic piece cracked and then look up diagram of model and ordered part. Once it arrived it didn't take very long to repair. Easy to a bit difficult and no more leaks.

First I removed the excess water by using my shop-vac both inside the machine as well as near the bottom drain valve. After cleaning out that valve (which somehow had accumulated a pair of underwear) it was apparent that the drainage pump motor was no working (loud hum, not spinning). Replacement was easy, folowing instructions found everywhere on-line. Now the machine is working perfectly again.

1) Remove door hinge cover. 2) Remove hinge door plate. 3) Remove hinge door pin using a hammer and striking tool if necessary. 4) Using needle nose pliers, remove gasket inside clamp from the door boot seal. There is a spring at the bottom that should allow you to pry this part out and off. 5) Pull the door boot seal away from the exterior cabinet to allow access to the hinge. 6) Remove the hinge screws 7) You should now be able to remove the hinge. 8) Install new hinge and reverse steps to reassemble.

The cycles were taking forever, then would not finish, water running in even when it was supposed to drain. Unplugged washer and water would still run, I had to turn off the water valve. I just removed the top with phillips screwdriver, removed the old valve by uncoupling the water hose, the two electric connectors and the two one screw holding it in place. It fixed the problem completely, washer working 100% now.

Called a Repair Man, he came installed the part and I now have a working washer once again:)

After I disconnected the power and water and turned the washer around. I removed the back panel cover and the top and back panel to get to the pulley wheel. Once I remove the retaining nut and pulley the wheel off the spindle, i compared the new and the old parts and noticed the obvious wear on the old part, luckily the spindle was not damaged and still functional. Placing the new pulley wheel was a little more challenging. Once I seated the pulley wheel with a gentle tap from a rubber mallet. I fitted the lock nut onto the spindle and continued seating the wheel evenly using the nut to the prescribed torque pressure. After I reassembled the washer and reconnected the water and power, tested the washer, and success!

Best to watch youtube video and take the time to take washer apart and gain the access needed. I completed repair and dismantled the filter and cleaned it in about an hour, better than the average of 2 hours.

Removed top cover, loosened front door cover, removed & replaced old cracked plastic 'water inlet tube', reinstalled front door unit & top cover. Very tight space to work in when not completely removing front door unit.

Sandblasted spider to thoroughly clean it and increase ductility.We used aluminum foil covered in 5200 on one side to cover holes eaten through spider. Then glued the spider to the drum and filled inside rim of spider with a nice layer of 5200. If the spider was made of stainless steel, the washer would still be running great. Thanks

Accessing the door seal was routine. Removing top and front covers was easy. Lower front cover was a challenge because the leaking door caused the screws holding the panel to rust, so extra effort had to be used not to strip the screw heads. Seal removal was easy, replacing the seal was much more difficult. The majority of the repair time was spent attaching the new seal to the drum. It became a tedious task with a large amount of trial and error. Replacing the front spring clamp also takes some time. Eventually I completed the repair and fixed the problem. I will say that if the washer breaks again, it's going to the dump.

Remove the bottom panel. Remove the top. Remove the front panel with the door. Romove the two clamps on the boot seal. Remove the old boot seal. Place the new boot seal on the casing around the drum and ensure you put the gasket nozzle and gasket nozzle washer in place. Install the inside gasket clamp with the clamp bolt to the right as you look at it (Note: ensure the nut is over the tab on the boot gasket and stays lined up there as you tighten it. Replace the front panel of the washer and when it is in place put the boot seal on the outside lip (Note: this is the most difficult part as the gaskets does not like to stay in place as you put the outside clamp on. Replace the washer top. Replace the lower panel (Note: while you have the bottom panel off, you may want to clean the debrie trap which is a white pipe and tray that catches stuff that is left in pockets.) For the entire project I used 7mm and 8 mm sockets, flathead screw driver, and a philips head screw drive.

This is the second door boot seal that I've replaced on my GE Washer (I don't know the model number). I turned on my IPad, went on YouTube, and found this video: "GE Front Loader Washer Gasket Replacement." I placed the IPad on top of the dryer which was right next to the washer and followed the instructions step by step. I used the pause and play buttons repeatedly to ensure I followed the instructions correctly. The hardest part was placing two retainer rings back on. These retainer rings are used to attach the gasket to the washer drum and to the door opening. When the door is closed it effectively seals the drum preventing water from spilling out or leaking. Before reinstalling both rings, ensure that the gasket is properly seated inside the appropriate grooves on the drum and the door opening respectively. It’s a very tight fit between gasket and metal, so you have to make sure the gasket is properly seated all the way around. The inside retainer ring can be tighten with a Philips screw driver or a small wrench. Not as easy as it sounds because you don't have too much room to work with. I had to grab the drum on the right side and tilt to the left in order to get a little more room for my screwdriver. It may be easier with a small wrench, but I don't have the patience. The second retainer ring goes on the outside of the gasket and the door opening. This ring is spring loaded. Attempt to place as much of the ring inside the groove before the spring loaded tension prevents you from going any further. When you get to this point, take a flat tip screwdriver (careful not to damage the gasket) and hold the retainer ring in place while moving counterclockwise and with a second flat tip screwdriver stretched the ring and popped into place until the whole ring is in place. The guy in the video does this effortlessly with only his hands. The first time I did this, my wife helped me do it. She held the left side while I used two flat tip screwdrivers to stretch the ring, pop in place, hold, stretch, and pop in place until complete. Once you're done you will feel good about yourself and grateful to the gentleman who recorded the video and was nice enough to share. Good luck.

My husband read all of the posted notes and then went to the you tube video noted by one of the postings. He gives excellent instructions and the video can be paused as each step is completed. The most difficult steps were gaining access to the rear clamp and attaching the rear portion of the gasket. Inserted a phillips head driver bit into a 1/2" deep socket and then used the rachet to remove and re-install this clamp.