GCVH6600H0MB General Electric Washer - Instructions
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My rinse cycle was not running because the cold water was not entering the washer
I followed the instruction on your site. I disconnected the power to the washer turned off the water turned on the nearest faucets to drain the lines. I removed the water hoses from the machine then took the three screws out of the back at the top of machine that held the lid on then removed the three screws on the top of the lid that hold the plastic piece to the front panel and pushed the lid toward the back and it lifted off. I then took the metal ring clamp off the water line attached to the water inlet valve and took the screw out that is on the back of the machine holding it on removed the wire plugs one at a time and put them one at a time on the new inlet valve so I would not get them mixed up. I then put the valve in place reconnected the water hose and metal clamp put the screw in the back to reattach valve the machine put the lid back on in reverse to removal reattached water hoses to the inlet valve turned the water back on plug in the power and immediately used the machine which works like new 20 minute job from beginning to end. By the way ladies if I can do it you can do it. TC
Parts Used:
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TERRESSA from TULSA, OK
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Hot water hose leaking, it was cross treated (twice) by the installer, would not warranty it the second time.
Followed your instruction, very easy. I installed Camco 90" & 45" Brass elbows to relieve strain on hoses.
Parts Used:
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RON from APPLE VALLY, MN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Rattling during the spin cycle
After I disconnected the power and water and turned the washer around. I removed the back panel cover and the top and back panel to get to the pulley wheel. Once I remove the retaining nut and pulley the wheel off the spindle, i compared the new and the old parts and noticed the obvious wear on the old part, luckily the spindle was not damaged and still functional. Placing the new pulley wheel was a little more challenging. Once I seated the pulley wheel with a gentle tap from a rubber mallet. I fitted the lock nut onto the spindle and continued seating the wheel evenly using the nut to the prescribed torque pressure. After I reassembled the washer and reconnected the water and power, tested the washer, and success!
Parts Used:
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David from Wylie, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Door Boot Seal was ripped
Called a Repair Man, he came installed the part and I now have a working washer once again:)
Parts Used:
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Marianne from Bend, OR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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washing machine not draining
First I removed the excess water by using my shop-vac both inside the machine as well as near the bottom drain valve. After cleaning out that valve (which somehow had accumulated a pair of underwear) it was apparent that the drainage pump motor was no working (loud hum, not spinning). Replacement was easy, folowing instructions found everywhere on-line. Now the machine is working perfectly again.
Parts Used:
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Robert from Chappaqua, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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door was not locking properly
removed the spring-loaded ring around drum seal, removed old lock latch, and installed new lock latch. also, removed old door plunger and installed new one. then re-installed the spring-loaded ring lock around the seal. there were 5 screws and 3 electrical plugs that were easy to remove and re-install. note: i used a black sharpie to mark where the original door plunger was prior to removing the original.
Parts Used:
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David from Yakima, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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