GCG21IEMFFWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I just followed the instructions on the video and it was exactly as they said......no surprises.

repair was easy, just removed control panel and removed screws from solenoid, switched out with new, was done in minutes

I followed they instructions from the other "do it your selfers" but only replaced the solenoid. This was the cause. Rust was keeping solenoid plunger from moving and this held the flapper door open. Very easy to repair!

Replaced rusted solenoid.

Popped front button panel off from the bottom using flat head screwdriver; Removed 4 screws holding electronics board and disconnected wires. Unscrewed 3 phillips head screws on old solenoid and replaced with new part. Reconnected wires to board, screwed back in, and pushed panel back into to place.

Thumbs up to PartSelect - fast, straightforward service and fast delivery.

I removed the door cover plate and disconnected the circuit board, then four screws. The part was corroded in place. Upon removing three screws and cleaning the surface, the new part was an exact fit, replaced it and everything works like new.

out with the old
in with the new

Remove front cover did not remove wires remove ice and water unit took off flapper put new one on 5 minutes back together

WE (WIFE) took out the old parts an replaced with new one ..Be careful to get the placement of the Grommet or they "POP" out on you. fast ship on the parts too.

The only tricky part was removing the front panel. Releasing the latches required considerable force. The best tool I found was a "jack knife" type Allen wrench set, using the medium size wrench, which fit into the release hole and upward pressure did the trick. The rest of the job was very easy.

This part worked marvelously. I followed a YouTube video to completion. Essentially, I removed the water filter cover by squeezing the tabs on the side. Then, I removed the housing for the light based on the tabs placement. I unscrewed the lighting fixture, unplugged and set aside. After that, I removed the bottom part of the damper assembly (that's not included but virtually attached to the damper) by pulling on its tabs' placements. Then, I pulled off the damper assembly, unplugged the cords and added the new assembly WITH the inclusion of the damper gasket assembly that doesn't seem to have been a part of the old assembly. Rescrewed and reattached everything and now the fridge is as good as new!!!

Use small putty knife to cut internal sealant on ice maker door trim piece. Then you can easily remove it.

The trouble with DIYers is that they don't have very much experience with and the benefit of several repairs on the same appliance. So they must rely on their mechanical abilities and the youtube help of Steve. So they must resort to eliminating the variables as their diagnostic approach. In my case I was unable to find the exact description of my problem, so I began with what seemed like the most likely and the least expensive replacement. So after I had replaced the water valve, the micro switch and the main board I finally found the problem was the water filter by ordering and installing a water bypass valve which I did not have readily available at the start.

You guys ought to win some sort of website Emmy. I found your site as I was searching for a new motherboard, thinking this was the cause of the temperature control problem. I took the time to go through the little diagnostic process you offer and I discovered that the much less expensive defrost thermostat was more often the root cause of the problem ($8 vs $160 for the new motherboard). The part arrived within 3 days and the installation video was enormously helpful. Removal of the rear panel was more difficult than suggested on the video. I'd suggest removing the freezer light fixture before trying to remove the panel as it is nearly impossible to bend the metal panel around the light bulb bases. Anyway, the whole job cost me about $16 for parts and delivery and the fridge is running fine. The combination of the diagnostic tool and the installation video were fantastic...far beyond expectations.

Find a video on youtube. Remove 6 screws. Pull the Styrofoam part up before removing the panel. Unplug and Remove the fan assembly.
You will need a NUT DRIVER to take the bracket off the backing plate.
I ordered the red grommet and the red bumper. You need TWO of the red grommets if that is the problem. My freezer was about 8 years old, and the grommets were worn and compressed, the bumper was not. Replacing these parts DID NOT FIX the problem. I needed a new motor.
I probably disassembled and reassembled this stuff about 7 times before I got all the parts and tools. Each time I had to unload the freezer.

Followed the online video. Unplugged refrigerator, removed trim piece, lifted control board cover, removed 4 screws retaining circuit control board and removed the 3 connectors from the control board. Located flapper and removed by using small flat tip to take tension off flapper connectors. Helper held flash light to illuminate flapper connectors. Reversed procedure. New flapper seals well and cured problems. Circuit board was a bit different than one in video, but still had the 3 connectors. Marked each connector with grease pencil at top edge to ensure correct reconnection. Should note how wires are threaded around circuit board to ensure they are tucked back in correctly in reassembly. Remove trim piece carefully. I broke 2 of the 8 plastic pins that hold trim on. May be due to age of unit as they were brittle. 6 pins still hold trim piece flush.